Re: Bio

[boblong@xxxxxxxxxxx (Robert Long)]

On Tue, 14 Jan 1997 04:25:51 GMT, you wrote:

|Thanks for the recommendations on the filters.  Currently, because I =
have
|only used color reversal film, I don't have any filters for B&W.  The =
only
|filters I have used so far are polarizers and neutral NDGrads.

Sorry--my comments on Wratten 25 and 29 filters obviously were
assuming HIE.  For color, I prefer the recommended minus-blue filter
(Wratten 12) because when I tested it against standard yellow filters
I considered the Wratten 12 to deliver the cleanest, most sparkling
colors.  Wratten 12s aren't easy to find these days, however, and a
regular medium or dark yellow filter gives similar results.  Others in
this group also say they have achieved interesting results with orange
and other filters.  But the farther from yellow you get, the more the
resulting color palette is likely to be limited.  This may make for
greater color harmonny or for muddier color, depending on what filter
and subject are involved--an on exposure, which can make surprising
differences in hue as well as saturation.

|What about exposure.  I know I can't rely on a handheld meter, so do I =
just
|set all of my exposures to f16 and 1/125 with the Wratten 25 in mid day
|light?  Do you have any general rules to share regarding exposure?

Since I do a lot of close-up and nature photography, I rely very
heavily on SLRs (or on the ground-glass image in the rare event of
using a 4x5) and therefore frame, focus, and meter exclusively through
the filter.  There has been much discussion in this group of the
varying sensitivity of the built-in meters in SLRs.  With those in
Nikon FE-2s and FM-2s, I've been using ASA 250 through a Wratten 25 or
29 and bracketing -1 stop for foliage, +1 stop for architectural
subjects.  As always, your mileage may vary, depending among other
things on the gasol... er, developer you use.

Bob Long
(boblong@xxxxxxxxxxx)

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Topic No. 22