Re:35mm to 120 loading

[cameron shaw <cameron@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi everyone,
		Like it or not, this is the metohod I use!
After reading you comments I feel that you probably are thinking of  a more 
complicated method of rewinding 35mm film onto 120. The way I do this is very 
simple. I normally do several reels, store the film, load and  unload the camera in 
total darkness.When processing a 120 film such as FP4 or Tmax I carefully peel 
the end of the film from the manufacturers tape which I leave attached to the 
backing paper, this paper is stored for later use.
On a darkroom table I unroll the backing paper attaching the free end to the table 
surface with masking tape. A wooden strip is then placed on the table to hold the 
backing paper flat, the remainder of the paper still wound on the reel. Wood is held 
by two weights and positioned so the wood edge corresponds to a centrally 
positioned 35mm film edge. A strip of masking tape is then cut and placed on the 
table edge for later use. In total darkness open the HIE box, holding the cassette, 
cut a sqaureish end on the film and fasten (emulsion side up) under the 
manufactures tape on the backing paper aligning the film edge with the wooden 
straight edge. Pull the cassette along the whole length necessary and hold. Fasten 
cassette with tape to table surface. Now remove wood and pulling gently wind the 
120 roll along the table. At the correct length (marked by a pointer on the table ) cut 
the film. When 120 paper completely wound take another empty 120 spool and 
reverse wind close together, so that the taped end is the first to go through the 
camera. Fasten with elastic band and place in light -tight tin. Rewind the 35 mm 
cassette for normal use. Only touch the HIE by its edge or use cotton gloves.
The backing paper is necessary to prevent reflected light from plate, resulting in 
film pressure plate patterns appearing.
I apologise if you find this method rather primitive and labour intensive!

Cameron




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End of Infrared-Digest V0 #313
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