Re: Bio and questions

["Willem-Jan Markerink" <w.j.markerink@xxxxx>]

On  4 Jun 99 at 14:03, Kevin Balloch wrote:

> QUESTIONS
> 
> From what I have read on this news group Kodak HIE seems to be the film
> that produce the most striking B&W infrared images so I would like to use
> some this weekend (Don't forget it is winter in Australia, although this
> weekend is going to be sunny) and have some questions regarding its use and
> development:
> 1. Which filter(s) would be a good one to start with.

Minimum is #25 ordinary red, while #87C infrared (opaque) will give 
you increased IR effects & contrast.
Practical problem is that you can't focus/compose through a 
#87C....that is why several people mount thin-foil filters inside 
their camera, between the film rails or behind the mirror. I have 
even done this with a #12 yellow filter for EIR-color, because it 
avoids *all* the filter hassles normally involved when swapping 
cameras & lenses frequently, and under difficult conditions.

> 2. What EI do I rate the film at - do you vary the EI depending on the
> filter.  I understand that the exposures will change with different filters
> but TTL Metering should automatically adjust for this I think - correct me
> if I'm wrong.

The Kodak recommendations are close enough to start with....with the 
help of the Sunny Sixteen rule (1/ASA seconds @ f16) this becomes a 
typical bracket of:

#25 red: 1/250s @ f5.6-11

#87C infrared: 1/60s @ f5.6-11

All this only in broad sunlight of course.

> 3. Braketing what is best -2/+2 stops?  Use whole stops or half stops?

+1/0/-1 is all I have ever needed.
Just watch out for shooting people/objects *under* foliage....you 
need far less compensation than with normal film....1-2 instead of 
the usual 5.

> 4. Focus adjustment I have a Nikon Macro 60mm D 2.8f and 24mm D 2.8f lens
> and I don't think either has a red dot for focus compensation in infrared -
> any suggestions on this or do I just use f22 and see what happens.  Does
> infrared macro work require the same focus compensation or more/less?

This topic, especially the macro-aspect, could keep optical engineers 
talking for hours, without any hard rules for your specific lens, so 
you'll have to try it for yourself. Rules of thumb: the correction is 
towards you (away from infinity), and most official corrections are 
within the range of DOF at 5.6-11, so if you move your focus towards 
that, you are close.

> 5. Developing the film - I use D76, any suggestions on dev times (1:1).  Do
> you pre wash?  Is fixing time 3-5 mins and what about the wash time?

There is a link on my homepage to a site with extensive 
film/developer data, see below.

> 6. Any tips on what type of subjects provide that infrared look, or what
> situations don't.

Foliage is bright white, grass & leaves being the brightest, 
pine-trees much less (you definately need a #87C to record that).
Water is pitch black, while snow is dazzling white....so don't rule 
out using HIE in winter time....my best shots were taking during 
skiing, see my homepage for samples:

http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mainpage.htm 


--                 
Bye,

Willem-Jan Markerink


      The desire to understand 
is sometimes far less intelligent than
     the inability to understand


<w.j.markerink@xxxxx>
[note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]
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