Re: bleaching attn: Tim

["Tim Rudman" <tim.rudman@xxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message -----
From: <Karin2001@xxxxxxx>
To: <infrared@xxxxx>
Sent: 12 July 1999 21:32
Subject: Re: bleaching attn: Tim


> Tim,
> Thanks for all the details.  I followed the instructions in your book and
in
> Theresa Airey's book and practiced a bit before attempting the mural.  I
> figured I had nothing to lose as I wasn't satisfied with the mural as
> is....so I jumped right in.  It turned out absolutely beautiful.
>
> I do have a question regarding your mix as described below and in your
book.
> With the Kodak Farmer's Solution, after mixing part A with B do you still
> need to add hypo???  Isn't Part B Hypo???   I mixed 10 ml A with 10 ml B
and
> about 20 ml water as it was a little to fast without the dilution.  I then
> refixed the whole print.
>
> Thanks again and let me know what you think about the hypo in part B.
>
> Take care,
> Karin

Farmers is hypo + ferri Karin. I was describing using the two ingredients
rather than a ready made Farmers soln, it's cheaper, more flexible - and I
always have a large pot of ferri on the shelf, it's such a useful commodity.

Tim

>  I would use Farmer's Soln for this - pot. ferricyanide in hypo. I
normally
>  use about 25ml of weak hypo in a pot, more or less depending how much I
have
>  to do, and add from an eye dropper bottle between 2 & 6 drops of 10%
stock
>  'ferri' soln. The no. of drops depends on the depth of tone I am working
>  on - you just have to get a feel for it. The strength of the hypo is not
>  important. If it is strong the mixture 'goes off' quicker - if it is
weaker
>  you can work with it longer. About 1/4 working strength is OK. Add more
>  ferri as it gets weaker and the colour fades. >>
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