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Re: Thin negatives
Joseph,
Assuming that good exposures are being made in bright sunlight @f 11 for
1/125 sec. with a #25 red filter, that extrapolates to and EI of about 200
with a 3 stop compensation for filtration. This will produce a thinner
negative but with good shadow detail when using PMK, however you may wish to
bracket arount this as your milage may vary.
HIE, stains very well and prints well too, giving finer grain than D-76 or
HC-110, and XTOL (my opinion). The look of this film/developer combination
is I think unique and provides a different creative option with HIE.
BTW, once you have arrived at a workable time/temperature combination for
HIE you can apply this to 2475 High Speed Recording film and get a cool 1000
E.I. with nice looking grain. Different than TMZ but not as pronounced as
when using HC-110 or Rodinal. I consider 2475 to be a "sister" emulsion to
HIE.
Don Bryant
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph O'Neil <joneil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <infrared@xxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 1999 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Thin negatives
> At 03:00 05/09/99 +0100, you wrote:
> >Pyro doesn't sound familiar though....I know that it exists, but I
> >doubt many use it for HIE....so either be sure to have the correct
> >developing data for HIE, or switch to a more bread-and-butter
> >developer. Mine are souped in XTOL at a pro-lab.
>
> i use Pyro, not for HIE (yet) however, but it should work just fine.
> However, it is a low energy developer, and you basically have to cut your
> rated film speed in half to achive good results with it. For example,
> shoot any B&W 400 ISO film at 200, or even 100.
> Pyro however is very good for low, small grain, and thinking about it,
> pyro might be a good developer for HIE in terms of keeping grain down.
> But to use Pyro, over expose by one to two stops. You'll have to
> experiment to see exactly by how much.
> joe
>
> http://www.multiboard.com/~joneil
> B&W, LF Images
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