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Re: IR with no direct sunlight


  • From: "David J. Romano" <romano@xxxxxxxx>
  • Subject: Re: IR with no direct sunlight
  • Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 12:55:32 -0400

Keith,
I would start by adding 15%-20%. If that doesn't give you the effect you want,
try 25%-30%. Experiment. Dave

Dave


Keith Zimmerman wrote:

> David, you suggest changing the development time when shooting on an
> overcast day.  Would you suggest a starting percentage for changing that
> time?  Here in the Central Illinois countryside, we get a lot of overcast
> days when the seasons change and I want to experiment.
>
> Since I do not have nor have a darkroom, I rely on an excellent lab for my
> processing.  They use TMAX at 75 degrees.  The only variable is the time.
>
> Thanks
>
> Keith Zimmerman
> zz_ir@xxxxxxxxxxx
> http://homepage.dave-world.net/~vkzimm/infrared.html
>
> >From: "David J. Romano" <romano@xxxxxxxx>
> >Reply-To: infrared@xxxxx
> >To: infrared@xxxxx
> >Subject: Re: IR with no direct sunlight
> >Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:16:24 -0400
> >
> >Robert,
> >Infrared film really functions no different than any other film. Just as
> >with
> >regular film, photos taken in direct sunlight will have more contrast. With
> >IR
> >film this is still true, but with a more exaggerated effect. If you were to
> >photograph with IR film on a bright sunny day, but in the shade, you would
> >get
> >pretty much the same effect as if it were an overcast day.  Since shorter
> >wavelengths scatter more, areas in the shade are relatively blue, with very
> >little IR.  This is one of the reasons why, in general, images on IR film
> >are
> >contrastier that with regular film, and why stronger filtration creates
> >more
> >contrast: because the shadows are deeper. Longer wavelength IR light
> >scatters
> >much less than visible light.
> >
> >Keep in mind the zone system: Expose for the shadows, develop for the
> >highlights. If you photograph on a cloudy day with IR film and develop the
> >same
> >way as if it were a sunny day, the images will have low contrast. There
> >will
> >less "IR effect", even though all of the objects in the scene still have
> >the
> >same IR reflectivity. Try changing the development time to get the degree
> >of
> >contrast you need for one of your average scenes. Then try the same thing
> >for a
> >scene on a cloudy day. One nice thing about cloudy days is that the images
> >tend
> >to be easier to print and there is often a really nice separation of values
> >in
> >the clouds which can make a drab day look dramatic.
> >
> >Changing light conditions makes exposure and development more tricky, but
> >more
> >fun.  Personally, I prefer to underdevelop a little to prevent the specular
> >highlights, the ones in direct sun, from blocking up. Then I print on grade
> >3 or
> >3 1/2 paper to get the contrast back. It is extremely rare for me to make a
> >straight print from an IR negative. There is always some dodging and
> >burning,
> >often using mulitple filter grades in the same print.
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >Stan Patz wrote:
> >
> > > >I accidently deleted a message where someone told me that there is no
> > > > >necessity
> > > >to have bright sunlight in order to shoot IR photos. Can anyone tell
> > >me
> > > >more
> > > >about his/her experiences under those conditions, some links with
> > >photos
> > > >would
> > > >be great, too.
> > >
> > >
> >
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