[MF3D.FORUM:993] Re: Mounting tips?

[Brian Reynolds <reynolds@xxxxxxxxx>]

David Motz wrote:
> I just got my first batch of MF Spicer mounts today.  I'm wondering
> if anyone could offer any hints on how to mount my Sputnik images.
> I'm used to mounting Realist format in Spicers using an RBT jig.
> 

This came up at the recent NYSS meeting, so here's how I do it.

I have a 8x10 light box that I tape one of the RMM mounting guides
to.  I got this light box at an art supply store.  It's meant for
tracing and doesn't have a color corrected bulb, but it costs a lot
less than the exact same box with the corrected bulb from a camera
store and I can always replace the bulb later.

Leave the film in the sleeve.  I cut a pair from a Sputnik roll, or
one frame each from a pair of Lubitel rolls.  At this point I do not
separate the Sputnik frames.  If I separate the frames from a Sputnik
pair at this point I inevitably lose track of which is left and right.
My libitels have a slight exposure difference, so it's easy to tell
left from right.  Put the rest of the roll(s) aside.

I take a single mount and place it on top of the guide on the light
box with the inside of the mount facing me.  I align the bottom edge
of the front (rounded corners) mount opening with one of the
horizontal lines on the guide.

Now I cut Sputnik pair apart.  Transpose two frames so that left is on
the left and right is on the right and they have the proper
orientation (i.e., you can read any writing in the frame).  Flip the
pair so that the left is on the right and the right is on the left and
the backs of the frames face you (i.e., the writing is backwards).

Take the frame from your right side (which is actually the left frame
facing backwards).  Put on a cotton glove.  Push just enough of the
film out of the sleeve that you can put a strip of tape (I use 3M
silver tape) along the top edge.  The tape should not cover the image.

Place the frame on the right side of the mount (your right side).
Look at the frame.  If there is a horizontal line (e.g., a window
sill) align it with one of the horizontal lines on the guide.  If
there is no horizontal line pick a feature in the frame that will be
in both frames of the pair and align it with a horizontal line in the
guide.  You'll probably want to take at least two features on
different lines and align them with the guide if you don't have any
horizontal lines.  If there are any vertical lines (e.g., a building
wall) align it with one of the two vertical lines visible in the right
opening of the mount.  Don't worry about picking the Near or Far line.
You just want to make sure that the horizon is level and verticals are
vertical.

Press down the tape on the left frame (which is on your right side).

Take the other frame and put tape on it.  If you can see the actual
horizon, move the mount so that something on the horizon in the frame
taped to the mount is aligned with the Far line on the right side of
the guide.  If there is no horizon pick something that you know is
close and align it with the Near line.

Make sure the mount opening is still aligned with the horizontal lines
on the guide and that whatever features you chose above are also still
aligned.

Place a straight edge (I use a cut off from the end of a roll of film)
along the horizontal line that you have a feature aligned with.
Align the same feature with the same horizontal line on the other
opening of the mount.  The straight edge is just to make sure that you
pick the same horizontal line in both openings.

Now align whatever feature you picked to match the vertical line in
the right opening with the vertical line in the left opening.

Check again to make sure that everything lines up on the correct lines
and then press down the tape on the left frame.

Now you can fold down the back of the mount and put it in the viewer
to make sure it looks good.

When I'm sure everything is OK I seal the mount with strips of Scotch
Magic Brand tape (the green plaid).

The only real trick is to be careful when placing the first frame.
Remember that you are cropping the image and don't try to get too
close to any of the edges.  If you do you'll find that when you place
the second frame down it will either stick out of the mount, or
overlap the first frame.  Lift up the first frame and place it a bit
further from the frame edge.  After a very short while you'll be able
to place the first frame without this problem, or recognize pairs that
will be a problem.

Occasionally you'll come across a pair that doesn't seem to match with
either the Near or Far lines.  At that point I just fudge it.

-- 
Brian Reynolds                  | "Dee Dee!  Don't touch that button!"
reynolds@xxxxxxxxx              | "Oooh!"
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds  |    -- Dexter and Dee Dee
NAR# 54438                      |       "Dexter's Laboratory"