[MF3D.FORUM:1689] Re: I got the MF Blues

[Sam <3dhacker@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

At 03:10 PM 4/13/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone know what the best setting is on the Sputnik for focus?
>He is my dilemma:
>I mostly do street photography. 

Do you photograph streets, or people? Are you using this term in reference
to candid stereo portraiture or architecture?

 When I use my 35mm cameras
>I am overall pleased with the results.  However, I find it
>difficult to get the same sharpness with my Sputnik.  I use
>a Nikon loupe on the viewfinder to make sure I have sharp
>focus.  But, when I get my slides back, there is usually
>some other part that is in better focus than the part I want
>(did I confuse everyone?). 

Are you 100% positive your taking lenses are in synced focus with the
viewing lens? 

 David Kesner posted recently
>that the best fstop is f11 on the Sputnik. 

There is no "best" fstop. There can only be a preferred fstop based on your
subject, lens performance, shutter requirements and depth of field
requirements. Some people cannot stand to see anything out of focus in
stereo and shoot only f16-32 (like me). Others seem to prefer the aperture
that gives the best apparent sharpness of the subject at the expense of
foreground and background sharpness. Others need 125th of a second so shoot
f5.6 to 11.

So if I set it
>at f11, what would be the best focusing be that would make
>it more like a point and shoot?
>About 6 months ago, I bought a used Fuji GA645wi.  You can
>turn these on end and get landscape proportions.  Also, it
>would enable you to have the lenses much closer together and
>it even has a cable release.  I was thinking down the road,
>I might get a second body.  But, when I get my slides back,
>they look dark and contrasty.  Very contrasty.  I'm using
>Provia and Sensia and have been taking them to a 3hr lab for
>processing (not doing it myself).  
>All I want is to take sharp, well exposed, MF slides.  Is
>that so wrong?

I think you're asking for a golden rule that doesn't exist. If you are
shooting motion then you have to compromise your depth-of-field  to stop
the subject. If you are shooting static subjects with good lenses than a
small aperture is preferable. Lenses too contrasty? Try a few greasy
thumprints!!!!


Sam