FW: Fuji 617

["Lee, Martin (Ex AS01)" <MLee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Try this.
> 
> Shoot a roll of your favorite slide film, that's called reversal film.
> Shoot with the light meter reading in the shadow areas.  Try the same
> shot
> (bracketing) +1, 2, 3, 4, 5, stops.  It'll produce a series of light
> to
> lighter slides; and then do the same -1, -2, stops.  Beyond that,
> it'll be
> too dark.
> 
> Then do the same with the negative film.  Plus four, munus three
> stops.  One
> on point.  Then, as they say, go figure.
> 
> That's the Zone system in color - from AA to you by me,
> 
> Steve Shapiro, Carmel, CA
> PS I don't care what other advice you got off this net thread, take
> your
> light meter, even if it's the ttl meter of your camera, and read the
> light
> then read the light through the filter.  You'll get the filter factor,
> for
> sure.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee, Martin (Ex AS01) <MLee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: sgshiya@xxxxxxxxxxxx <sgshiya@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 5:41 PM
> Subject: RE: Fuji 617
> 
> 
> >I'm afraid that just went right over my head - perhaps I should keep
> my
> >mouth shut!
> >:-)
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Steve Shapiro [SMTP:sgshiya@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 10:33 AM
> >> To: panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> Subject: Re: Fuji 617
> >>
> >> When we shoot color ngative film the negative becomes a template
> for
> >> the
> >> color sensitive paper.  Plus exposure gives a heavier saturated
> print.
> >>
> >> Under exposed reversal film makes the medium less susecpitable to
> the
> >> electrolisis, process of 'clearing' the film of the unnecessary
> >> emulsion,
> >> therefore it's thick with chemistry and *dark.*
> >>
> >> Steve
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Lee, Martin (Ex AS01) <MLee@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> To: panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 4:59 PM
> >> Subject: RE: Fuji 617
> >>
> >>
> >> I think that should be dark NEGs mean over exposed - the print
> should
> >> look the same as the slide ie dark if underexposed!
> >>
> >> are you trying to confuse us?    ;-)
> >>
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Steve Shapiro [SMTP:sgshiya@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> >> > Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 1998 3:02 AM
> >> > To: panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> > Subject: Re: Fuji 617
> >> >
> >> > Dark slides mean underexposed, dark prints mean over exposed.
> >> >
> >> > Any filter needs to be rated for the filter factor.  It sounds
> like
> >> > you
> >> > refer to dark transparency results, right?
> >> >
> >> > You can read a light with your meter, then read the same light
> with
> >> > themeter
> >> > behind the filter and thereby get the filter factor.  Then, open
> the
> >> > lens,
> >> > adjust your speed and/or f-stop accordingly.
> >> >
> >> > S. Shapiro, Carmel, CA
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Tom O'Brien <tobrien@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> > To: panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> > Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 9:51 AM
> >> > Subject: Re: Fuji 617
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I have recently purchased the older fugi 617. Pics are coming out
> >> > dark. What
> >> > adjustment needs to be made for center-spot filter? Adjustment
> >> needed
> >> > for
> >> > polarizer filter on top of center-spot? Could it be that one
> needs
> >> to
> >> > open
> >> > it up 3 stops? Or would that mean something is wrong with camera?
> >> Any
> >> > suggestions much appreciated.
> >> > Tom O'B
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Rick Taylor <rick.taylor@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> > To: panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <panorama-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> > Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 12:06 PM
> >> > Subject: Re: Fuji 617
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > >Dear Paul:
> >> > >   Get the rental shop to let you shoot a test roll using Velvia
> in
> >> > their
> >> > >parking lot using the Fuji ND Filter. My recollection is that
> you
> >> > need to
> >> > >compensate 1 stop. Other members said 2 stops. so I would test
> it
> >> so
> >> > you
> >> > >don't waste so much film. Use filter mentioned below [see###) in
> >> > place and
> >> > >figure [open 2/3 stop for filter]. This will greatly improve the
> >> > color of
> >> > >the film!
> >> > >
> >> > >Most people don't shoot this way because it took me 25 years to
> >> > figure it
> >> > >out myself! Most people just go with the flow and don't bother
> with
> >> > filters
> >> > >at all.
> >> > >
> >> > >If you getr really into it you can buy a color meter to measure
> >> > exactly
> >> > what
> >> > >filter to use. I do this with all my assignment shots to get
> >> > consistent
> >> > >results over varied lighting shot over many days/locations. It
> is
> >> the
> >> > >tickeet and only takes a few seconds to determine what filter to
> >> use.
> >> > >
> >> > >81 C = moderate warming effect needed in high altitudes as color
> >> > temperature
> >> > >can reach 10,000* at high noon!
> >> > >
> >> > >81B less warming ....  81EF  most warming....
> >> > >
> >> > > If Velvia is 40 ISO set meter at ISO 20 for one stop + ISO 10
> for
> >> 2
> >> > stops.
> >> > >If you do so you will be able to set the meter ISO on what works
> >> and
> >> > than
> >> > >what the meter reads will be a Zone V reading! Makes shooting
> >> easier
> >> > so you
> >> > >can work more quickly to capture the sweet light!
> >> > >
> >> > >(###) I found the Fuji lenses shoot cool (blue) so I usually buy
> a
> >> > KodaK
> >> > >wratten Filter 75mmX 75mm (3" X 3") 81C filter and cut it to fit
> >> > inside the
> >> > >back of the camera behind the rear lens element. It is important
> to
> >> > use non
> >> > >shining photo tape to secure the filter in place. Try to keep it
> >> > flat.
> >> > >Slight bend seems to be ok.
> >> > >
> >> > >If you bracket in 1/2 stops you will certainly get close. I
> bracket
> >> > in 1/3
> >> > >stops and blow 2 rolls on one subject. I shoot for my zone V
> >> reading
> >> > and
> >> > >underexpose 1/3 stop, normal meter exposure, open 1/3, open 2/3,
> >> open
> >> > 1
> >> > >stop. sHoot two sets using two rolls. Mark the rolls Shot 1 A
> and
> >> > Shot 1 B.
> >> > >Clip the A roll so you lose only the firsat frame and adjust
> >> > processing on
> >> > >rest of roll to nail final exposure. Process the B roll based on
> >> this
> >> > >Balance of Clip processing.
> >> > >
> >> > >Keep notes , it all very simple to keep up with ....
> >> > >
> >> > >I will Fax you my form if you gives me a fax #...
> >> > >
> >> > >Bye for now. See signature at end to call or fax me if
> >> > interested.-Rick
> >> > >Taylor/Atlanta Panorama
> >> > >
> >> > >At 03:31 PM 8/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >> > >>I am a rookie to Panoramic photography and would like some tips
> if
> >> > you
> >> > don't
> >> > >>mind.
> >> > >>
> >> > >>I am going to be renting a Fuji 617 for a trip to Banff,
> Alberta.
> >> > This is
> >> > a
> >> > >>very beautiful area in the rockie mountains.  Any tips on how
> to
> >> use
> >> > the
> >> > >>camera, as all my photography has been done with 35mm.  I plan
> on
> >> > using
> >> > Fuji
> >> > >>Velvia, and would like some tips on exposing the film properly
> to
> >> > get
> >> > great
> >> > >>shots.
> >> > >>
> >> > >>Thanks for any help!!!
> >> > >>
> >> > >Rick Taylor
> >> > >TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY
> >> > >Atlanta - USA
> >> > >E-Mail rick.taylor@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> > >Phone/Fax 404-634-8333
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >>
> >