Exposures w/o Meters

[P3D <LeRoyDDD@xxxxxxx>]

Recent observation on list...

"No question that you need a light meter to [shoot] anything that is not
close to "sunny day"... especially indoors."

     There are exposure guides that describe lighting at lower levels than
"open shade." *The Kodak Master Photoguide* pocket-sized booklet has lots of
goodies, not the least of which is an "Existing Light Exposure Dial."

     Examples are (for K64):
          Open Shade... f8-f5.6 @ 1/30 sec. (Daylight Guide)
          Skyline 10 min. after Sunset, circuses and ice shows(A)... f4 @
1/30 sec.
          Candelight Closeups(G)... f4 @ 1 sec.
     all the way down to
          Niagara Falls--Dark Colored Lights(!)(L)... f4 @ 32 sec.(my
interpolation)

     Film reciprocity effects aren't mentioned.
     Periodically,:=), similar tables appear in photo magazines.

     For some of these situations, a meter is merely an adjunct to careful
consideration of the light conditions based on past experience. Some of them
can be read well with a spotmeter. Some depend largely on the effect desired.

     To do better than "run of the mill" in any aspect of photography, IMHO,
you've got to (1) take 'em, (2) evaluate 'em, (3) adjust procedures to make
'em better, (4) repeat process.

     Film just doesn't have the dynamic range of the eye... often the
*correct* exposure reflects what part of the scene you decided to *let go*
into under or overexposure.
     In the days of single plate/film images, overexposure and
underdevelopment often created the dynamic range compression that contributes
to the beautiful tonal range we enjoy in so many of the best stereoviews. We
can't do that easily in these days of transparency/roll film.

LeRoy Barco
LeRoyDDD@xxxxxxx


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