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New toys
- From: P3D John Bercovitz <bercov@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: New toys
- Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 15:38:52 PDT
I added some new toys to the Excel file which calculates the
maximum allowable stereo base for a given maximum allowable
on-film deviation. Here are the inputs and outputs as they
stand now.
Inputs
I1) maximum allowable on-film deviation You calculate this by
dividing your format's lens focal length by 30 or by entering a
value you find acceptable.
I2) lens focal length. This is the focal length of the lens on
the camera (which should be the same as the focal length of the
lenses on the viewer).
I3) nearest point in scene Enter the distance from the camera
to the nearest point.
I4) farthest point in the scene Enter the distance from the
camera to the farthest point.
Outputs
O1) distance for best average focus This figure shows where you
should focus your lens so that the nearest and farthest points in
the scene are equally sharp on the film. After calculating this
distance, I like to actually set an object at this distance
temporarily and focus on it with my lens wide open.
O2) effective focal length of the lens Since you move the lens
outward towards the objects when you focus, this tells you how
long your lens is pretending to be in this situation. For
instance, if you have a 35 mm lens and your acceptable on-film
deviation is 1.7 mm and your near point is 100 mm and your far
point is 140 mm, the lens will be out at 50 mm. So you would want
to use a viewer with 50 mm lenses in it to get the correct
magnification.
O3) maximum allowable stereobase This is the maximum amount you
can shift your camera on your slide bar without exceeding the
maximum allowable on-film deviation you input above.
Additional input
I5) desired resolution in minutes of arc This is the figure you
want to input to calculate your correct f/number setting using the
standard geometric formula for calculating f/number. If you don't
stop down enough, you won't have the depth of field you need.
Additional outputs
O4) nominal f/number This is what you set the f-stop lever or
barrel on your lens to.
O5) effective f/number This is the effective f/number of the lens
considering you had to focus the lens out and that lengthened the
operating focal length. Use this to calculate shutter speed.
O6) diffraction-limited resolution This is the system resolution
due to diffraction effects. If you stop down a lot, you'll have a
small aperture and your resolution will go someplace in a
handbasket.
Additional input
I6) film & lens resolution in lines per mm This is the resolution
of the film including any fixed errors of the lens. (The loss of
resolution due to diffraction was calculated separately.) 60
lines per mm is a pretty good figure. Maybe 40 lpmm is more
realistic for many systems.
Additional output
O7) summation of all three resolutions in quadrature This is a
really a suspicious equation I just grabbed out of the air. I
don't stand behind it (or anywhere near it, for that matter). It
will give you the general idea of your total resolution, however,
giving roughly the right weight to all the various causes of loss
of resolution, IMHO (only). It's at least a figure of merit.
Observations
If you're doing really close work with ordinary camera lenses,
you're going to lose a tremendous amount of resolution by stopping
down to increase depth of field. Play with the inputs and you
will see what happens. You can balance these effects by jockeying
the figures. Still, when you get all done, it would be nice to
have a reasonable resolution. Under good, high-contrast
conditions, 1 minute of arc would be right. Under lower-contrast
conditions, you might get away with 2 or even 3 minutes of arc.
The FAQ and the Excel files are in my anonymous ftp site.
ftp ftp.netcom.com and go to pub/be/bercov/photography/3D
John B
PS: I can't seem to translate the .xls to windows on this Mac so
I'll do the translating at home. For now, the Excel file is in my
site as a binary file and also as a .Hqx in case the binary gives
you any trouble.
John
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