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Lincoln's Revere/black paint
- From: P3D E R Swanson <ers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: Lincoln's Revere/black paint
- Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 07:36:02 -0700 (PDT)
Lincoln posted:
Mike K and some others recomended that I try putting tape where the film
would go (and leave the back off of the camera)to see if there is any
problem that shows up. Yep, I actually was able to see the same problem
of the verticle light stripes live, while looking at the image that showed
up on the tape. It appears to be reflecting off of the edge of the metal
that the film goes against. What is the solution to this? Do I need to
paint this edge? It is black, but it does seem to be a bit on the shiny
side.
Could I use acrylic black paint?
I tried the method of putting a small light inside the camera, and then
closing it up, looking at it in a dark room, I could see no light what so
ever.
Thanks for all the help every one, I think we are almost done fixing my
camera.
Lincoln Kamm
-----------------------------------
The black paint is available from Fargo Enterprise (item CF3 Flat Black
Paint) at $4.25, plus post. They're online at www.fargo-ent.com. This is
about as good a fine pigment flat black that you can buy since the flat
black brushing lacquer has been removed from the US market. (I'd really
*love* a bottle of flat black brushing lacquer if anyone knows of a
source!!!)
However, whether or not this will fix things is problematic. Internal
reflections are tough to deal with. Also, putting a piece of paper in the
guide and flashing a light in the camera can be an indicator, but it
leaves a lot of unanswered variables. As I suggested to Lincoln, taping
the back of the camera completely around the back's perimeter with
electrician's tape and actually exposing and rewinding a roll of film
under realtime daylight conditions will tell you if the back is the
culprit. For any camera with a back that detaches, this is always my first
suspect. Yep. It'll cost you $10 to find out. But you'll know. The
pressure plate, which presses against the film guide, is constantly trying
to launch the back of the camera, so any warpage in the back (thin metal)
or damage to the side fitting or the metal locking bar or a problem with
the latch itself is potentially going to let light in. Even if you shoot
with the ready case on you can still get light in.
Anyway, if it turns out to be internal reflections causing the light
strike, Mike's right. Paint, and possibly making some internal light traps
should cure the problem.
--Elliott
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