Nimslo Surgery

[P3D Bob Aldridge <bob.aldridge@xxxxxx>]

Grant Campos wrote about Nimslo Surgery


->I just though some people might be interested to know about my
->latest Nimslo Surgery.  I drilled a 3/8" hole in the left side
->(as you look at the camera) of the bottom plate, near the front,
->so that I can stick a straight wire in there to cock the shutter
->without having to advance the film.
-> 
->First, I misunderstood the instructions (I still highly reccomend 
->the Reel-3D Nimslo book) and drilled a few holes in the lens 
->surround.  Well, now I can move a lever inside which pops the shutter
->open and it stays open till I push the shutter release button.

->Now I can check the effects of my various close-up lenses I have
->rigged up to be used in fron to the camera.  (I made plates that hold
->Zeiss Proxars on a bracket that blocks out the other lenses).  I shot
->my first roll of Lenticulars with the Nimslo about two weeks ago, and
->tried an extreme close-up with it (9 inches from the camera).  I'll
->let you know how they turn out when they come back from Nimstec.

Useful modification for checking out ideas. I suspect that you're going
to have a problem with the proxars - the "overlap" will be seriously
reduced at close range. Try using a SINGLE close-up lens over all four
lenses. You'll need an 80mm lens, I think. (I don't think a 72mm will
quite reach, but you might like to try, if you have this size already).
The single lens acts as a prism and toes in the beams so you'll get
great lenticulars at close range.


->(I have a Japanese Nimlso in case that makes a difference)

Yes, it does! The Japanese models were more robust (electrically) than
the UK models. Do you have a small printed circuit under the base plate?
If yes, it's an early Japanese, and less robust than the later Japanese
models which were beefed up in the circuit board and solenoid
department... All models were ostensibly the same, but there was a
definite and detectable implementation of the "continual improvement"
policy. (The Nimslo Manual that is printed in the Reel-3D book seems to
refer to the early Japanese model - it shows the small suplementary pcb
and the Japanese solenoid shape. For the record, I've never seen the
Reel-3D Nimslo 2nd edition that includes the manual, so I don't know how
clear the reproduction is, but I have the Original that they reproduced
from here - and it's on blue paper... If anything's not clear, I may be
able to decipher it.

Bob Aldridge
Stereoscopic Society Projectionist
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