Cleaning of Stereoviews

[P3D Bill C Walton <bill3dbw3d@xxxxxxxx>]

Bert van Dijk asked about cleaning of stereoviews.

A six part article on preservation and restoration 
of images was published in STEREO WORLD
in the mid 1980s.  Written by Christine Young it 
covered almost everything you would want to know 
about this subject.

She wrote the following about cleaning:
CLEANING
A  number of cleaning methods are recommended. 
Each is tailored for a specific type of surface; do not 
interchange them without good cause.
The first step of cleaning is to remove loose dirt from 
the surface.  For both prints and mounts this is done 
with a soft brush, working from the center out.  Broad,
natural bristle brushes, such as watercolor brush, Kodak
or Staticmaster brush are recommended.
MOUNTS
Cleaning of mounts should proceed the cleaning of the 
photographs. Coated and uncoated papers are extremely
different, therefore it is very important that the card type 
be properly identified.
Uncoated paper is cleaned by erasure. Powdered eraser
is the gentlest method for the purpose.  Opaline and SlumX
are two of the most common brands; they are generally available
in art or drafting supply houses. Powdered erasers come in 
shake-out cannisters and in knitted fabric bags.  If the eraser
is purchased in bags, ignore the manufacturer's instructions 
for use.  Gently twist and shake the bag over the card to release
the eraser.  Cannistered erasers should be poured over the 
mount.Using your fingertips, gently roll the eraser crumbs over 
the surface of the card to remove the dirt. Brush away soiled crumbs.
Repeat several times if necessary. Be extremely careful not 
to inadvertently erase the photographs; work along tears or separations
with great care.
A gum eraser may be used for stubborn marks such as a pencil.  It 
should not be used for general cleaning . Over broad areas, cleaning 
with large erasers will cause streakiness. Non-powdered erasers are also 
appreciably more abrasive than necessary for the removal of general 
surface dirt.  
Even powdered erasers are too abrasive for the fragile and polished
coated 
surfaces.  The only type erasers appropriate for use on coated mounts 
are the kneaded type, also available in art and drafting supply stores.  
Kneadable erasers are soft and pliable.  Roll the eraser between the hand
to form a cylinder, then gently roll the eraser over the surface of the 
mount,  Careful rubbing over very soiled areas is acceptable.
Coated mounts will never clean as thoroughly as non-coated mounts 
so keep expectations realistic.
IMAGES
Most albumen and gelatin prints can be cleaned carefully with 
water.  Handcolored photographs cannot be cleaned in 
this manner as the colors will be removed in whole or in part. 
Retouching on the print may be water soluble. Often retouching
will appear too dark on the faded print, and its removal may be 
asthetically desirable.  Removal of extensive retouching
may leave gaps in the image, however; in this circumstance 
it is best to leave the photograph uncleaned rather than risk
voids.
    The print surface is cleaned with distilled water (grocery or
drug store) applied with cotton swabs,  Dip the tip of swab into
a small container of water and allow the water to wick into
the swab.  The swab should be moist, NOT WET. Holding the swab 
horizontally, gently roll the moist cotton over the surface of the 
print. Never rub the surface as any dirt entrapped in the swab may
be ground into the print causing staining or abrasion.  Photographic
surfaces are much more fragile when they are wet, and so they 
must be treated very gently during cleaning.
    Clean only small areas, confining rolling action to an area about
1" square (2.5cm). Repeat this procedure until the entire surface is
cleaned.  Start each area with a fresh swab; if the surface is extremely 
dirty, it may be necessary to replace the swabs more frequently, using 
several in a single area.  A dirty swab will not clean, but will merely
redistribute and redeposit dirt.  Likewise, do not dip a used swab back 
into the water, and do not return used water to your supply jug.
   Check the cotton swab frequently during cleaning to be certain that
only dirt is being removed from the print.  Often the dirt appears 
very black.  It is wise to start cleaning in a highlight area.  The first
swab can serve as a reference to the dirt's appearance and offer 
reassurance when cleaning dark image areas.
   Gelatin emulsions swell with water and become tacky.  It is very 
important that swabbing of gelatin be done quickly. Never allow the
surface of the print to become really wet; permit the gelatin to 
to dry thoroughly before returning to the area, or cotton fibers will
stick and become embedded in the photograph.
   Watch out for separation of the albumen or gelatin emulsion 
from the underlying paper.  Albumen is generally dry and brittle,
the cotton fibers may snag at edges along the cracks and lift the
emulsion upward.  Gelatin may swell and expand to such a degree 
that it pops free of the underlying paper.  Separation is most
likely to occur along edges, tears and scratches where moisture
can get to the print more readily.
   Frequently, stubborn  soils which do not respond to water cleaning
will respond with saliva, applied with swabs.  If this option is taken, 
avoid food and beverages, other than water, prior to cleaning.
   Never use any type of eraser on the face of photographic 
prints.  The image layers are far too fragile an susceptible 
to abrasion
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GOOD LUCK
BILL C WALTON
MUSCOGEE 3-D
bill3dbw3d@xxxxxxxx 


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