P3D Re: Kodak vs Realist

[Ronald Beck <ronald-beck@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Well, IMHO, there's not that much difference between the two cameras.  I
have used both a Realist and a Kodak and actually own the Kodak.  Why?
well, it was the right price (~$100.00) at the right time (I had
~$100.00 to spend :)).  If there had been a Realist for sale at that
time, I probably would have bought it.

Now, for the differences I've seen...

1. You have to remember to cock the shutter of the Realist before you
can take the next picture.  Not a big deal once you've gotten a routine
down of shoot, wind & cock.  Kodak is simply shoot  & wind.

2. Realist has a range finder.  Quite useful to verify the distance of
your subject.  I didn't use this feature much as one of the rangefinder
windows was dirty and made it hard to use.  Kodak has no range finder so
you have to estimate the distance.

3. Realist has the viewfinder on the bottom of the camera.  This is so
your nose doesn't get in the way (?).  You can also use your forehead to
steady the camera.  And, the recommended method to hold the camera makes
this design very handy.  Kodak has the view finder at the top of the
camera (like most cameras).

4. Realist doesn't have a level in the viewfinder.  While this isn't
necessarily a detraction, the Kodak has one so I know when I'm holding
the camera absolutely level.  It also works well in the field if you've
forgotten your torpedo level while on a building project :-)

5. Realist has a good solid feel to it.  It's design is simple yet
rugged.  The Kodak, while also pretty solid, would probably show some
damage if you were to drop it, step on it, or run over it with your
car.  I don't think the same can be said about the Realist.  In fact, if
it were sitting just right and the shutter were cocked, it'd probably
take a great 3D photo of the underside of your car as you ran over it.

6. Realist has a hot shoe, Kodak has a funky flash connector requiring
an adapter, cable and PC capable strobe unit.  Unfortunately, the
Realist also has a big "bump" that needs to be filed down to accept
modern day strobe units.  Either that or a groove needs to be ground
into the hot shoe of your strobe.

Again, IMHO, it really comes down to what's available when you're ready
to purchase a 3D camera.  In my case it was the Kodak.  I would have
been just as happy with a Realist.

Hope this helps,
Ron


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