P3D Re: Lent.Prints,Slides,Macros fr. Nimslo/Nishika/Rittai

[WDuggan3D@xxxxxxx]

 Re:  Where can I get Lenticular Prints from 4-lens 3D cameras
such as Nimslo, Nishika, Rittai?

The only thing constant in 3D processing is CONSTANT CHANGE.

Some time ago both Image Tech and Ritz Camera 3D Magic Lab 
ceased making Lenticular Prints from 4-lens cameras, but as of 
last week Mr. Terry ROTH, current Manager of the The RITZ  Camera 
3-D MAGIC LAB, 12200 Baltimore Ave., Route 1, Beltsville, MD 
20705, tolds me that  negative film from any 3-lens camera (3D Trilogy, 
3D Wizard, 3D fx, Photon 3D 888,  or 3-D Magic) and from any 
4-lens camera (NIMSLO, NISHIKA, RITTAI) can be developed for 
$3.95 and that 3-D Lenticular prints from three negatives (NOTE:  
They use 3 of the 4 negatives from the 4-lens cameras), which 
can be viewed without any glasses or viewer,  cost 75 cents per 
print with film processing, or $1.00 per print for reprints.  If you ask 
for and can get them to return your negatives UNCUT in a roll (Ask 
them to put the red stickers "DO NOT CUT NEGATIVES" on the 
film cassette itself as well as on the envelop, especially if you are 
sending it to the 3-D MAGIC LAB from any of the more than 500 
RITZ CAMERA Stores thruout the US), you can send the uncut roll 
off for contact positive transparencies which you can cut and mount 
as slides on the NIMSLO 4 perf RBT mounts or half-frame GEPE 
6101 (18x24mm) mounts or the double half-frame GEPE 6102 
(2x18x24mm) mounts.  This can be done at Dale Labs, or Seattle 
Film Works, or at a lab in Austin, Tx, and possibly a lab in CA.

Note following lens separation and affect of close-up Plus lenses:

Nimslo & Rittai:  lens #1 & #4 =  56mm (so that slides from #1 
& #4 will have enough separation for good stereo depth); #1 & 
#3 = 38mm; Any 2 adjacent lenses (#1 & #2, or #2 & #3, or #3 & 
#4)= 18mm (about same as MACRO Stereo Realist so that with 
a taped-on Plus 4 Close-up lens you can do Macros at about 6" 
or 7" or perhaps 8", and Ritz 3-D MAGIC LAB has printed 
Lenticulars for me of close-ups of flowers) .  The above also 
applies to the TECHO-NIMSLO, which has been modified to take 
out the 5 or 6mm gap and to use two lenses as well as all four, 
and which can be purchased with Plus 1 Close-up lens for photos 
at arms length or about 27" and Plus 2 for about 22"-24", and Plus 3
for about 12"-15", and plus 4 to use only Lens #2 & #3 at about 6".
By blocking Lenses #2 & #3 so that you are using only Lenses #1
& #4  you have the 56mm separation and you can get 36
stereo pairs (each image is 18mm wide by 22mm high) on a 36 
exposure roll in the same sequence as in a Stereo Realist format
camera, all with point and shoot simplicity & in focus from about 5'
which makes it ideal for Mardi Gras and other night photos of  
moving people.

3-lens cameras ( 3D Trilogy, 3D Wizard, 3D fx, Photon 3D 888,  
or 3-D Magic)  have the following lens separations:
Lens #1 & #3 = 37mm;  Lens #1 & # 2 (#2 & #3) = about 19mm
or possibly 20mm, but still close to separation of MACRO STEREO
REALIST, so that remarks made above still apply as to use of
CLOSE-UP PLUS 4 lens for macros.

>From NY mail order stores and at some photo swap meets, 
you may purchase Vivitar, Tiffen, Hoya, Aroma, or other brand 
72mm CLOSE-UP sets (Plus 1, Plus 2, and Plus 4 in a case), 
which will fit the filter threads of BURDLO cameras, and which 
you can hold over or tape to the 3-lens cameras for Close-Ups 
as follows:  Close-up Plus 1 is ideal for portraits and animal and 
table tops  at about 27" and still have good focus to about 10' 
and, therefore ideal for "Mardi Gras" type photos;  Close-up 
Plus 2 = about 22"-24";  Combine Close-up Plus 1 and Plus 2 to 
make Pluse 3 which = about 12"-15"; and use Plus 4 for about 6" 
to 9" (you have to test for distance to sharpest focus).  I tape straws 
on the bottom of my camera at right and left ends to form two
probes (as with the Macro-Stereo Realist camera), in the length 
needed for the Plus 4 and/or Plus 3 lenses, and I place the ends of 
the straws (probes) on either sides of my subject (I place the subject
between the ends of the straws)  so that my subject is centered 
and in focus without my looking thru the viewfinder, which is not 
accurate at this close range.  I also use flash, preferably on a
bracket to one side (not on the hotshoe) so I can tilt the flash down.

You can do the same as above with the 4-lens NIMSLO, NISHIKA, 
or RITTAI, except that you need 77mm or larger CLOSE-UP Plus 
lenses in order to cover all four camera lenses.  

Incidently, when you use one large Plus Lens to cover all three or 
four camera  lenses, the one Plus Lens automatically creates a 
proper stereo window for the distance/focal length involved.

If you take your 4-lens camera negatives to a 1-hour lab where
you can talk to the operator, who has a printer where he can see
 and adjust each print, you may be able to explain to him/her that 
you want the "Half-frame" Negs #1 & #2 printed as one full-frame 
4"x6" print with the dividing line  exactly centered, and the same 
with Negs #3 & #4, and etc. for the rest of the roll.  If you succeed,
you can cut the 4" x 6" prints apart, using prints from Negs #1 & #4
to create (after proper trimming off some of top or bottom and edges
to get stereo window) 7"-wide stereo Cards.  You can make them fit 
into the Q-VUE NIMSLO FORMAT STEREO CARDS.  You can use 
the prints from Negs #2 & #3 for MACRO STEREO CARDS if you
made the exposure thru Plus 3 or Plus 4 close-up lenses, or give 
them away as 2D (flatties).  Thus, from 4-lens cameras you can have 
3D Lenticular Prints, 3D cards, 2D flatties, and 3D slides all from the
same roll.  You can do the same from the 3-lens cameras, except
that it is almost impossible to get the 1-hr Labs to print #1 & #2 as 
one 4"x6"print and #2 &#3 as the next 4"x6"print. to make 3D Cards.

I hope this helps.  Perhaps this is too long.  William A. DUGGAN, APSA


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