Mailinglist Archives:
Infrared
Panorama
Photo-3D
Tech-3D
Sell-3D
MF3D

Notice
This mailinglist archive is frozen since May 2001, i.e. it will stay online but will not be updated.
<-- Date Index --> <-- Thread Index --> [Author Index]

P3D Project-or-View


  • From: Bill Davis <bd3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Subject: P3D Project-or-View
  • Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 19:41:07 -0400

>
>|2.  An earlier posting by Dr. T (Nov 17 1997) mentions an
>|even earlier posting by Harry Poster as to giving tips with
>|how to clean the projectors.  I could not find the earlier
>|posting in the archives.  Does anyone have the digest
>|number?
>|
>   I can't find it either - unfortunately searching on "project" or
>"view" (as well as "TDC") gets you a LOT of hits...

The reason you can't find it is because it was posted to Sell-3D, not
Photo-3D.  Harry posted  to S-3D Digest 155 in June 97.

Quoted here in entirety:

>Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 21:24:05 -0400
>From: S3D Harry Poster  <hposter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: 3D Sell <sell-3D@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Projector-or-View Problems
>Message-ID: <33A1F2B5.A3C@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>>>In the unit that I sold I noticed that there was considerable slack in the
>focusing control.  Is that normal?  Any way to fix it?
>
>-- George Themelis
>
>
>George my boy...sure you can fix it!  The Proj-or-View is a poor quality
>projector with a poor quality viewr, but you can make it a bit better.
>
>   First turn it upside down--see those 20 or so screws in two rows?
>They all come out, then the top and bottom halves of the unit come apart
>(two metal strips held the pieces together, thanks to all of those
>screws).
>   Next, look for the junky little lenses--they're in a metal holder
>that uses a band and springs to return the interocular..the grease
>always gums up. Take the lenses out--clean them and the metal plate, and
>re-lubricate with something that can't freeze up. Now look for the focus
>knob and clean and re grease that. This is where I usually force the
>small lens up out of position (this is a depolarizer that is turned into
>the path of the light if you don't want the 3D effect--duh). 
>   Clean and lube whatever else moves, replace or at least clean all of
>the polarizers and mirrors, and then replace the lenses and lens
>assembly. Oh, did I mention that you really should pull the fan blades
>off the shaft to make it easier to separate the unit???
>   Now hold it together (but don't actually reassemble it) so that you
>can try to focus the lenses manually on the screen, because you
>unscrewed them and you'll need to reset the focus. Once you figure
>everything is okay, put the fan blade back on, slide the metal strips in
>place, and try to get all the screws back in.
>  Presto--just as easy as that, you're done!
>
>That's why I sell Projector-or-Views cheaply, so the buyer can take a
>few days off work to clean and relube the insides themself.
>
>           Harry Poster
>


****************************************************************

>|3.  My POV appears to need a new cord.  Does anyone know a
>|source for these?  The existing cord looks like it was
>|sculpted from an old coffee maker cord and will need to be
>|replaced.
>|
>  This is a little tiny plug - amazingly small for the wattage it's
>supposed to carry. However, on April 15th of '97 George mentioned that
>Harry P. made a good suggestion to him on how to handle the replacment
>(but he didn't say what it was!). 

Seems as though it was a Kirby vacuum cord or appliance extension cord of
some sort.  My Project-or-View is the older 2-D version (Model 260) and is
substantially different from the 3-D version.




Best regards,
Bill Davis

mailto:bd3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxx



------------------------------