P3D Re: lots of questions

["Dr. George A. Themelis" <DrT-3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi!  You have questions, we have the answers!
  
>Hello all,
>I am the proud owner of a Stereo Realist 3.5 and two Pentax K-1000 SLR's
>that I can mount on different aluminum angle bars, either horizontally
>or vertically.  

Sounds like you are well-equipped for a wide range of stereo photographic
subjects and techniques!

>    1. What mounts should I use? 

You have a variety of choices.  I can give some general recommendations
but you will have to try them and decide for yourself:

- Heat-seal cardboard:  Very popular because they are inexpensive.  Despite
  claims to the contrary, it is possible to accurately mount slides in these
  mounts.  However, they only come in Realist format size (5p).  "Slip-in" is 
  another type of cardboard mounts which, while very convenient, it is rather
  expensive and does not lead itself to accurate mounting.  "Spicer" tape-shut
  are an interesting type of cardboard mounts that come in a wide variety of
  sizes but are a bit tricky to use (for a beginner).

- Aluminum mounts:  Albion mounts are available in 3 sizes.  The offer the
  benefits of aluminum (stability, clean edges, flexibility, accuracy) but
  must be enclosed in something else (usually cardboard or glass).  Some
  people mount their best slides in aluminum and glass for best protection.
  Other choices in aluminum mounts (discontinued but found in flea markets,
  etc.) are Realist (or Sigma) and EMDE.

- Plastic mounts:  Made by RBT in Germany and distributed in the USA via
  Jon Golden.  Expensive but easy to use, flexible in sizes and positioning
  of the stereo window and rigid.  Good choice for projection.

I am personally using Albion, Spicer and RBT mounts.

>    2. Can I use Realist size mounts for the 7P slides?

Yes, certainly!  I do it often to improve composition in my 7p or 8p
slides.  But you are not restricted to Realist size since Spicer, slip-in,
Albion, Realist, EMDE and RBT mounts come in 7p, 5p and 4p and Spicer
and RBT in even more sizes.

>    3. If I can't, what do I use and what viewer do I need?

If you decide to use the 101x41 mm mounts (these are the dimensions of the
outer frame) then you can use any viewers from the 50s and on that will
take these mounts, like the examples mentioned below.  Some viewers might
need to be modified to allow you to view the entire frame area.

>    4. What are the differences between a red button, red dot, brown button
>    viewer?

Color?  :-)  Realist made a series of popular viewers known as red button
and green button, from the color of the switch button at the top.  Kodaslide,
Revere, Wollensak, TDC are other well-known viewers dating form the 50s.
Brumberger, Life-Like, Star-D, Radex are names that appear a bit later.
In addition to the color, viewers differ on the quality of optics, general
construction, existence/absence of internal illumination, interocular or
focusing adjustments.

>    5. Do I need I light box?

No. :-)  (let me rephrase: not necessarily)

>    6. Do I need a film cutter?

Most likely, especially with the Realist format where the images are 
touching each other.  But I have known people who are going along with a 
pair of scissors.

>    7. Anything I need to know but haven't asked?

No. :-)  Now you just need to try it.  Get a Reel-3d catalog and 
information from Dalia, Rocky Mountain Memories, etc., about 
availability of mounts and other supplies.  Order a sample or two of 
each mount.  Load your Realist with slide film and shoot a roll.  
Process your film and request that it is returned uncut.  Cut a few 
frames (with scissors if that's all you have) and try mounting them in 
different mounts.  Use a cheap ($3.25) Radex viewer to view the results.  
Then, come back and ask more questions. :-)

Good luck!

Regards -- George Themelis


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