P3D Re: stereo camera case maintenance

[Bill Davis <bd3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

>Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:07:02 -0700 (MST)
>From: Michael A Amundson <Michael.Amundson@xxxxxxx>
>
>
>  I recently purchased on ebay a brand new, never used c1950s
>Kodak stereo field case.  This is mint+++ condition.  Now, how do I keep
>it from breaking like my previous 2 others (both purchase with wear)
>already had? 

The best way to keep it mint is to keep it in a box somewhere, then buy a
beater to protect the camera.  Can't say as I practice what I preach,
though.  My first stereo camera came with a brand spankin' new case, which
immediately was transformed into a functional one.

You want the case to be functional, too. 

>Do I oil it like my softball glove? 

Depends.  What do you put on your softball glove?  The intent is probably
the same, to replace lost oils and maintain a supple leather. Some oils
darken leather more than others, some darken over time, some have
particular odors, etc. You need to test a bit.  You want something that
won't ooze back out of the leather onto your clothes. 

As part of my preparations for doing a workshop on case restitching at NSA
'98 and a how-to video on case repairs in general, I recently spoke with a
representative from Geo. Pfau and Sons, processors of animal fats and oils
for industry and asked him what would be the best oil for replenishing
dried-out leather camera cases.  (You want to condition the leather before
any restitching is attempted, or tears are sure to result.)  From their
product literature, I had picked out a Neatsfoot oil that I wanted to look
at, but mink oil is at the top of their recommended list, neatsfoot second.

Not the cream, wax or paste material often (mis)labeled as "Mink Oil" in
the shoe department, he told me. "There might be some real mink oil in
those products," he said "but we've never been able to find it." These
waxes and pastes tend to be more of a top dressing. For deep down
conditioning you need a penetrating conditioner. Real mink oil, a liquid
oil at room temperature, is very near to the original oils in composition. 

Even this is not thin enough to penetrate as deeply as I want for a
flexible hinge, so I dilute mink oil to 10% in a non-flammable evaporative
solvent. (Carbona (tm) or similar spot remover would work) This provides a
viscosity less than water, allowing the carrier to rapidly penetrate deep
into the pores and fibers of the leather, carrying the conditioner with it.
 The carrier evaporates, leaving the oils where they can do the most good.
I apply it with a dropper, feeding the leather all it wants at the hinge.
You don't want to apply this much to the rest of the case, though as it may
end up a bit too supple.  You want to retain some of the structural
stiffness.  Wipe off any residual oil.

>Living in northern
>Arizona (arid and major temperature changes probably doesn't help) 

You might try a tack shop. They should have something to recondition
dried-out saddles.  That's bound to have been encountered in Arizona. 


>Should
>I reinforce the bending parts(an effective method tried on earlier
>versions)?  

I have stitched/glued a strip of thin leather inside a case to repair a
completely severed hinge (even taped the process for the video) but this
was a last resort for an otherwise useless case. Anything would have been
an improvement.  I guess I would wait for tears to start before stitching
or gluing any non-original bits on, especially if the case is now mint.
Enjoy it! 

> ANY suggestions would be most appreciated.
>
>Michael Amundson
>Visiting Assistant Professor of History
>Northern Arizona University
>Michael.Amundson@xxxxxxx
>
>

I apologize if anyone is offended by mention of oils from animals.  I
suppose there are vegetable oils which may provide similar
protection/rejuvenation to leather, but I admit I don't know which.  Those
concerned about use of animal products are unlikely to have leather cases
anyway, I suppose.


Best regards,
Bill Davis

mailto:bd3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxx



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