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P3D Stereo Base
- From: "Andrea Blair" <asblair@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: P3D Stereo Base
- Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:16:05 PDT
>>>>Bruce Springsteen wrote (in part): While "don't worry, shoot happy"
is a good way to avoid math anxiety,<<<<
If the avoidance of calculations and formulas is referred to as "math
anxiety," then is the compulsion to have an exact formula called
"creativity anxiety"? {:>) {:>)
>>>>it does have at least two possible drawbacks that I have noticed. It
uses up more film for each resulting pair.<<<<
I don't think this is any different than bracketing for exposure. I know
several (2-D) photographers that bracket a minimum of 3 times per shot.
Hypothetically, that gives them a minimum 12 *perfect* images per roll.
Personally, I'd rather be comfortable with my equipment's capabilities
in different lighting situations and concentrate on composition and
stereo effect. I very rarely bracket unless the lighting is very tricky
and I am desperate and absolutely have to have that particular shot.
Are there any stereo photographers out there bracketing AND shooting
multiple shots to obtain one stereo image?
My reason for shooting more than one shot is to intentionally have a
choice. The same stereo base using the same lens and same lens to
subject difference (no matter where you measure from) may not compliment
all of the subjects photographed with these measurements. Subject,
lighting, and composition all play an important role in how the final
image will look. If you are 8 inches away from the subject, a 6mm
separation may look great for a flower but a bug may look better at
10mm.
This actually pertains to ALL stereo shots. At some point the guidelines
are ignored and personal preference takes over. You may like
hyperstereos, while someone else doesn't. I may like things coming
through the window, while others don't. What we are searching for at any
time is a guideline, not a rock solid rule. There seems to be many
guidelines. Maybe the answer is to just pick one that you are
comfortable with and use it consistently, varying in according to your
style of photography.
Here's another theory I heard from one of the workshops participants
that I had never heard of before:
Measure the distance from the camera to the subject in inches (can't
remember if they specified where on the camera/lens). Move the camera
horizontally the same number, but in millimeters (i.e. subject distance
= 4 inches, move camera 4mm). Any thoughts?
Andrea S. Blair
asblair@xxxxxxxxxxx
p.s. It's nice to see that everyone has pretty much recovered from NSA
and is joining the group again.
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