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P3D Printing anaglyph
- From: hjerting@xxxxxxxxx (Jon Hjerting)
- Subject: P3D Printing anaglyph
- Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 13:33:54 +0200
Hi,
I am wondering if there is anyone who has experience with printing anaglyph 3d.
At the moment I am helping a friend who is going to have a
3d art project printed in a norwegian art magazine. He has
ordered and received 3000 red/blue anaglyph glasses from
rainbowsymphony.com. They recommended red/blue but a
british shop called Real3 claimed that red/green was far
better for printing. Which is right?
My friend has taken pictures, both using a sliding bar and
using two cameras mounted together. Contrary to what¥s
been written in photo-3d he didn¥t seem to have much of
a problem synching his two cameras mounted together
with a flash. Perhaps it was just beginners luck. He used
a selfmade aluminium bar through which he screwed the
two cameras together bottom to bottom. This made
approximately a 65 mm separation. His cameras were
Olympus OM1 and OM2. He used a double cable release
purchased from the Wideangle center in London.
The cable is a mechanical cable release by the make Kenline.
He shot a whole film with a Metz 45 flash wthout synch
problems (at 1/60 s). He did another film using 2 Elinchrome
studioflashes. This time only 3 picures in the roll were not
synched properly (half the picture was black).
I have been scanning these pictures and made a 3d
red/blue picture in photoshop. This seems to give a good
result as long as I keep the picture in RGB. Changing the
picture to CMYK seems to pretty much ruin the effect. Do you
have any advice on printing red/blue 3d pictures or do you know
of where I could go to find out? Is it best to print in cmyk or in
2-colour? Which pantone colours best match the glasses?
I hope someone can help me with these questions or direct me to somewhere
where I could find out.
Jon Hjerting
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