P3D Re: Delurk, Projectors, EKTAGRAPHIC vs TDC-116

[wduggan3d@xxxxxxxx (WILLIAM A DUGGAN)]

I've been doing stereo projection with a rather ratty pair of Kodak
Carousel
> 750H projectors, and I definitely need something new if I want to get
> serious about doing shows.  Does anyone have any suggestions on what
would
> suit me best for doing twin 35mm projection?  At the moment, I intend
to
> start shopping for a couple used Ektagraphics, although I'm not sure
yet
> which model I should start looking for.  Would a TDC with setup for 2X2
> slides make more sense?

I recommend new EKTAGRAPHIC IIIA projectors, which come with a 3 or
5-year warranty (I forget which) and possibly with  the new extra bright
lamp module, which has a heat absorbing mirror instead of heat absorbing
glass, used with the BRACKET internal polarizers which clip on the
condensing lens. and when the original EXR lamps are replaced, using the
newer EXW-5 lamps, which are even brighter than the EXR lamps and  last
indefinitely.

All Ektagraphic III models have removable lamp modules containing the
lamp, condensing lens (on which you can clamp the BRACKET internal
polarizers where they stay cool and clean and block 1/3 of the heat from
reaching the slide and do not degrade the sharpness of the projected
image) and either heat absorbing glass or a heat absorbing mirror.  If a
lamp burns out in the middle of a show, you can quickly slide the module
out and insert a standby module without stopping the show.  In 1976 KODAK
introduced the new brighter lamp modules with the heat absorbing mirror
instead of the heat absorbing glass, which retailed then for $150 each,
but are now available for as low as about $80 each on the New York Mail
Order market.. KODAK loaned NSA 14 of these new modules which I used at
NSA '96 Rochester and they were indeed about 1/3 brighter with standard
EXR lamps than the old modules with the brightest EXW-5 lamps in our
tests.  I have heard but not confirmed that these new bright modules are
now standard in new EKTAGRAPHIC III projectors, but you should confirm
when ordering.

If you purchase used projectors you do not get the warranty or the extra
bright lamp module.and you may get a projector with the automatic focus
in need of repair, which is expensive.  Used projectors from audio visual
rental firms or corporate audio visual departments have usually seen
heavy usage and are pretty worn.  When I had to borrow one Ektagraphic
IIIA projector from the hotel audio visual supplier, it was really beat
up and defective (the automatic focus did not work). 

Check the New York Mail order firm ads listed in "Shutterbug"  or in the
back of "Popular Photography" for the best prices.  Cambridge usually
offers new Ektagraphic IIIA projectors for about $326 each without
lenses, but may try to charge you $15  extra for the KODAK Warranty,
which is printed on the last page of the Owner's  Manual and is supposed
to be included in the price.  Other firms may charge about $350.  Check
what the firm will charge for shipping.  One firm had free shipping if
you sent in a coupon.  Some charge $7.50 or more for shipping.  Some
charge sales tax. I recommend that you use a Charge Card when ordering so
that if there is a problem you can get MasterCard, VISA, or DISCOVER to
credit your account with the amount if there is a dispute or problem with
the seller.

In the "IIIA", the "A" stands for Automatic Focus, which works perfectly
on all but very soft focus slides, and even on mixed cardboard, plastic,
or thick glass mounts, and which you turn "on" or "off" with a slider
button..

You do not need the "T" (Timer) or "S" (Screen) models, and be aware that
the "E " models do not have automatic focus.

The first year's production of all models of Ektagraphic III projectors
had a wiring problem which caused carousel  trays in both projectors to
continuously advance when the two or more projectors were used with a
fade/dissolve unit or were connected with a "Y" remote control, and
sometimes a new one comes through the assembly line with that problem,
which KODAK will remedy free of charge under the Warranty. Some of those
early production models may still be in the second hand market, but cause
no problem so long as you do not connect them together (so long as you
use separate remote controls to advance the slides).

Even with the brightest lamp (EXW or EXW-5) and the new bright lamp
module, the Ektagraphic III projectors are so cool in operation that even
cardboard or glassless plastic mounted slides DO NOT pop into a concave
shape requiring the Curved field lenses which were often required by the
older Carousel projectors.  Thus, avoid the "C" lenses, which are marked
in BLUE lettering around the end of the barrel.  I recommend the "FF"
(FLAT-FIELD) lenses which are marked with WHITE lettering around the end
of the barrel.  Used FF KODAK lenses may be purchased second hand at
Photo Swap Meets, often for $15 or $20.  For home use f2.8 4"or 102mm
lenses are best.  For camera club meetings f2.8 5" or 124mm lenses are
best, but for large audiences the newer and lighter and sharper f3.5
180mm EKTAPRO lenses, which cost about $80 each in the New York Mail
Order firms (and which I use at NSA Conventions), are needed. These 180mm
EKTAPRO lenses may be used in the BRACKET Dissolver and FADER by trimming
one side of the barrel on each adjacent lens.  The older f3.5 7" lenses
are perfectly OK (and which I also use at NSA conventions) and may be
purchased for about $20 each at photo swap meets or through SHUTTERBUG
ads. I  do not recommend zoom lenses, as they are difficult to keep both
images at the same size, as they may  creep or rotate from vibration, but
the newer FF f3.5 100-150mm Zooms seem to be better.  I have had no
problem with KODAK fixed projection lenses matching, and the National
Geographic uses them, so I see no need for the more expensive other
brands. I might be worthwhile for you to buy used Carousel projectors at
$20 to $50 each at yard sales, swap meets, or  thrift shops just to get
the FF KODAK lenses.

As of yesterday, a local consignment and thrift shop, "Second Hand Rose",
at 730 East Gude Drive, Rockville, MD Phone (301) 424-5524, had a number
of used KODAK EKTAGRAPHIC IIIE projectors with FF f3.5 KODAK 100mm -
150mm Zoom lenses for an asking price of $95 each as well as CHIEF MSU3
3-projector stackers also for $95 each.

Because of greater depth of focus, the f3.5 lenses are sharper than the
f.2.8 lenses.

DO NOT PURCHASE the older Ektagraphic AF models, as they are hotter and
are meant for glass-mounted slides only, as  the side ramming mechanism 
which positions each slide precisely in the gate is too strong, often
bending and popping apart cardboard mounted slides.

Take two polarizers with you when you are shopping for lenses so you can
put a polarizer at each end of the lens and look through the "sandwich"
while rotating ONE of the polarizers to see if all light is extinguished
in TWO positions 180 degrees apart.  If light is NOT extinguished, one or
more elements in the lens is plastic instead of glass, and will
depolarize light and therefore require you to hang the polarizers over
the end of the lens instead of using internal polarizers..

You can use either 140-slide or any standard 80--slide carousel trays for
cardboard or thin glassless plastic mounted slides, but for any glass
mounted slides (GEPE or WESSPLASTIC) Use only the KODAK EKTAGRAPHIC
UNIVERSAL 80-slide model 2 slide trays, as they have thinner partitions
and wider spaces to avoid thick slides jamming and/or failing to drop.
The word "UNIVERSAL" appears in raised letters in the center well of the
tray.

As carousel KODAK projectors (such as model 750H) made in the US lack the
side ramming mechanism that positions slides precisely in the gate, they
really are not suitable for 3-D projection, as slides may drop to the
left or right causing large variations in the separation on the screen of
homologenous points, causing eyestrain, and requiring horizontal
adjustments from slide to slide.  You may test this by going forward and
then backward and then forward and backward a number of times and watch
the images  "dance" from side to side on the screen.  You may minimize
this by removing the ring, running your finger around all slides in the
tray to push all slides to the center of the tray, and then replacing the
ring before each projection. 

RE; using TDC model 116 projectors for 2x2 slides:  The Model 116 does
have a dual track carrier, with the rear track for 2x2 slides, and a 40mm
x 40mm square aperture large enough for full frame 35mm or 2x2 slides,
horizontal or vertical, or even for super-slides, but you must find or
make some kind of holder to hold the slides in alignment exactly 1/2"
apart. Reel 3-D used to sell and may still have an oversize cardboard
mount in which you manually insert the right and left film chips, but you
can not align the horizontal or vertical or create the window except with
the individual controls on the projector from slide to, slide.  In the
1950's there was a RADAX or RADEX (I am not sure about the spelling)
system produced by the Newman Broun co in NY, NY, consisting of a slide
bar for any camera and the best 2x2 focusing  viewers with optical glass,
and aluminum holders which held two cardboard or thin plastic glassless
2x2s exactly 1/2"apart for insertion in the viewers.  These holders can
be used in the rear channel of the TDC-116 to show 2x2 slides in stereo. 
Many years ago I purchased about 500 from Mr. Poster, and they may pop up
at any swap meet or at an NSA Convention Trade Show.  Someone in CA once
produced some aluminum clips which could hold two 2x2 slides exactly 1/2'
apart for use in the TDC-116.  I do not know if the FRANKA 35mm slide
frames which hold two 2x2 slides for the FRANKA viewer (sold by Reel 3-D)
can be used in the rear channel of the TDC 116.
With the limitation of 4" or 5" lenses and the need for frequent
adjustments, however, the TDC 116 is really not suitable for quality
projection to large audiences in my opinion.  .

I hope this helps.  

William A. Duggan, APSA  wduggan3d@xxxxxxxx   and   wduggan3d@xxxxxxx
3-D Audio Visual Associates and NSA Projection Consultant
P. O. Box 805,  McLean, Va 22101-0805  Phone (703) 849-0961

Projection Lamp Tips (Revised 10/30/98) by William A. Duggan, APSA, and
published in the PSSP BULLETIN and also in the NSA STEREO WORLD

        1.  ENG (120 volt, 300 watt) AV/Photo  projection lamps, the
brightest lamps for the Brackett Dissolver and older Kodak Carousel and
older Ektagraphic AF  projectors, and EXW (82 volt, 300 watt) lamps, the
brightest for the Ektagraphic III projectors, have an expected life of
about 17 hours, but newer, improved ENG-5 (125 volt 300 watt) and EXW-5
(86 volt, 300 watt) lamps (made by  Sylvania and Wiko, and perhaps
others) have a slightly  higher voltage and  heavier filament and last
much longer, perhaps over 100 hours. The "-5"  lamps are available from 
Audio Visual Express, Inc ,( Phone 1-800-243-2749)   as low as $14.00 per
lamp when on sale or in quantity plus shipping and handling charge. 
Retail photo stores often charge $22.00 to $32.00 for ENG and EXW lamps
and don't know about ENG-5 or EXW-5 lamps.  ELH-5 and EXR-5 lamps also
have a longer life than ELH and EXR lamps, the "normal" or medium bright
lamps that come with new KODAK projectors.

        2.  Projection lamps fail:   a)  As the filament stretches and
sags to the breaking point;    b) When cold air is blown over the hot
glass after the lamp is turned off;    c)  If the projector or lamp
module is bumped while the lamp is still hot;    d)  If the lamp has been
touched by bare fingers; or   e)  If a voltage spike higher than the
lamp's rated voltage maximum hits the lamp (voltage varies as lamps come
on and go off when projectors are connected to the same circuit for fade
dissolve and/or multimedia projection). 

        3.   To extend the rated hours of any projection lamp:    a) 
Keep a record of projection hours on masking tape attached to the back of
the projector or lamp module, and as the half life approaches,
periodically view the filament via a dental type mirror, and when the
filament starts to sag (curve downward), reverse the lamp (gently remove
the lamp and reinstall it upside down);    b). Do not leave the blower
running after you turn off the lamp;    c)   Do not bump the projector or
lamp module while the lamp is hot;    d)  Use white cotton gloves (the
same gloves used in handling negatives, film, and film chips) or a clean
handkerchief when touching, picking up, installing, or reversing a lamp;
and    e)  Connect all projectors to a surge-protected power strip.


(NOTE:  This article, along with other articles by William A. DUGGAN,
APSA, P. O. Box 805, McLean, VA 22101-0805,  Telephone:  (703) 849-0961,
E-Mail:  wduggan3d@xxxxxxxx             is available on a PC computer
diskette in AMIPRO 3.0).>
>


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