P3D Twin Canon strobe synch (Boris)

[JNorman805@xxxxxxx]

Boris writes:

<< I am about
 to take apart the cable releases to see if I can splice things together, to
 fire both cameras with one button.  I need both cameras to capture the
 image, although only one camera will trigger a strobe kit via a PC cord.>>

I'm replying on list because I think others may be interested.  I use Canon
Rebel X cameras fired by two remote cords spliced into a single button, with
Vivitar 285 flash connected by remote sensor cord to one of the hot shoes
(either one, it doesn't seem to matter as long as the cameras are up to
factory specs).  I've also hooked up to studio strobe setups with equal
success.
 
 <>

Generally, yes, although certain precautions boost the success rate.  Use
slower shutter speeds than the fastest nominal synch speed.  I usually use
1/30 unless ambient light dictates slower.  I ALWAYS use manual exposure!
Until I started doing that, my synch results were entirely unpredictable. Make
sure the autofocus lenses have both stopped "hunting" before you trip the
shutters.  If the situation allows, use manual focus.  
 
 <<2.  The non-flashing camera is set to open its shutter slightly before the
 flashing camera, and also have a slightly longer exposure.>>  

Interesting.  I haven't tried that.  I can understand that a longer shutter
speed on the nonflashing camera would keep that shutter open AFTER the flash
quenches, but the only way I can imagine to reliably open the shutter of the
non-flash camera before the other and make sure it is still open for the
duration of the flash would be to wire up an electronic control box with
resistors and diodes.  Possible, and I remember seeing plans for such a little
black box made out of Radio Shack parts in a PSA Journal about four years ago,
but it sounds like a lot of trouble to me.
 
<< 3.  Any other ideas?>>

Sell some more nude sets and spring for an RBT?
 
<< If anyone has experience twinning these cameras, or dealing with two
 remotes of designation 60 T3, please let me know what I am getting myself
 into. >>

I really don't remember the designation of the remotes that fit the Rebel X,
but the splicing was VERY simple and straight forward.  Use soldered joints.
Use plenty of insulating material.  Make sure the braided sheathing between
the two cables is reliably joined.  Test everything with a continuity tester
before you hook it up to your BORROWED cameras!  Remember that the remote
button has three positions: off, meter and focus activation, and all the way
down to fire.  If your joints are solid and well insulated from each other,
you'll preserve all functions.  Finally, after you have everything hooked up
and just before you fire, cross your fingers.

By the way, I recently devloped a glitch in my setup.  All of a sudden, the
camera I usually use to fire the flash stopped doing so.  I switched the flash
to the other hot shoe and everything seems fine.  I'll have to attend to that
one of these days . . .

Good luck.    Jim Norman


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