P3D Re: hinged mount

["Duane Starcher" <duane_starcher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

     This is a file I probably posted a long time ago.  I hope it answers
your question.

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    As there has been some discussion on mounts and separation
lately, I will explain the setup I use most of the time.  As I am also a
juggler, I knew that I would need a vertical setup for shots of other
jugglers, but would want horizontal for most other shots.  So, I made a
mount that can be changed from one alignment to the other in about 1/10th
of a second.

     I took a length of hardwood about 1" by 1-1/2" by 8" and routed
a lip, making a kind of L-shape just a bit shorter than my two cameras
(Rollei 35's, because they are shorter than most others and I already
had one).  I then cut the length in half and rejoined it with a strap
hinge underneath, being careful to get an exact alignment when open in
the horizontal position.  (I inlayed the hinge.  You will see why you
have to do this when you have all the parts layed out in front of you.)
Two steps were left, one to drill holes for the 1/4" screws to hold the
cameras and the second to install a small pair of magnets to hold the
hinge in the back-to-back alignment when it is folded to the vertical
position.

     It sounds simple and it is if you don't mind being finicky when
you build it.  The L-shaped lip at the back of the mount ensures that
the backs of the cameras are in alignment and I took a lot of care to
drill the screw-holes as perfectly as possible.  I get a 10.7cm
separation horizontally and about 8cm vertically.  I soon found out
I needed one more hole to read the counter, as it is on the bottom with
Rollei 35's.

     The great thing about the set-up is that I can shoot a
horizontal shot and be ready to shoot vertically in no more time than it
takes to advance the film.  I can change my mind between vertical and
horizontal with a mere flip of the wrist, a great advantage in any
sports photography.

 Disadvantages?  With Rollei 35's sync is with a twin cable
release.  I have gotten many perfectly synched shots of jugglers
handling as many as eight objects but it has taken a bit of practice in
how I handle the release cable.  Non-sports shots are normally in
perfect synch.  I get perfect horozontal alignment.  In the vertical
position, because of a bit of play in the strap hinge itself, I find I
sometimes have to trim about 1/4" off the top or bottom of one of the
shots unless I take care in how I hold the unit.  Practice makes
predictable, but not perfect.  As I always shoot for prints and
crop my shots anyway, this variation is not a problem for me.  The ease
of use and the cost of the unit (scrap lumber, a $1.00 strap hinge, two
bolts and a considerable amount of elbow grease) has solved a lot of
problems for my stereo shooting.

     Could the idea be applied to other cameras?  Sure.  I have done
something
similar with two Pentax K-1000s. They were a bit far apart and also limited
to cable sync.  I didn't notice any problems with focal-plane shutters going
in opposite
directions when I used them vertically.  I expect a pair of small automatic
cameras synched electronically is what I ought to have eventually.

     If you have any questions, drop me a line.  I haven't tried an
ascii drawing of the setup, as it is rather basic and can be easily
reinvented my almost anyone with rudimentary shop skills.  The two best
ideas were the strap hinge and the magnets so you don't have to worry
about alignment in the vertical position.

Duane Starcher
duane_starcher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<www.ucs.mun.ca/~duane>


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