P3D Color film comments

[Bob_Maxey@xxxxxxxxxxxx]

Some comments and observations:

1. Kodachrome is the sharpest and finest grain material available, with the
exception of Illfochrome Color Micrographics Film. That material is only
rarely suitable for general use; almost never, in fact.

2. Ektachrome is getting better, but it has a ways to go still. I never use
Fuji, so I will not comment. It is not Kodachrome, so I could make some
assumptions about it.

3. Many things can affect how well film works for you, regardless of the
material. Was it stored properly on its way from where it is made to your
dealer? Are you using Kodak processing or someone else's? Was the film
exposed to chemical fumes? Did the dealer put the material in jeopardy by
storing it in unusual places, near heat, etc.? Do you let it sit in your
camera after exposure or do you have it processed promptly?

4. Have you formally tested the films you use in a consistent manner? For
example, the same camera, filters, subject, etc. Vs. Kodachrome in one
camera and Whateverchrome in another, under different situations.

5. What filters do you use, or do you use filters to correct light color
balances properly?

6. In choosing the best film, simple guidelines are to use the slowest
material you possibly can and use a tripod if at all possible. Even if you
are shooting at a high shutterspeed, use a tripod. At 1000th of a second, a
tripod will still improve your results. On the other hand, it is possible
to shoot certain types of action at a slow shutterspeeds and still get
great results. The angle of an oncoming object can make it possible to use
slow films and shutterspeeds with little problem. Remember, objects that
swing - like kids at a park are stopped still at one point.

Millions of slides were made when Kodachrome was far slower than it is
today. And do not forget, slow shutter speeds and long time exposures
demand correction for reciprocity. An increase in exposure time over what
your meter tells you, and color correction filters. At high shutter speeds,
correction is also required. Reciprocity works at both ends of the scale.
If you do not properly correct, it is possible to see color shifts that are
simply not avoidable, unless special steps ate taken to make a correction.
It's physics and laws and has nothing to do with poor performance of a
particular film.

7. Forget the anecdotal comments about certain films being shipped "Green".
This happens so rarely, that it is not a factor. There are many people who
swear that film gets shipped from Kodak before it is ripe. Balderdash,
Balderdash, Balderdash. It might happen, but that is a rare occurrence,
regardless of what some people might think.

8. Do not store film past its expiration date, and freezing does not have a
great effect on how well film holds up. Film, regardless of how its stored
will expire and degrade to some extent. The refer is OK, but it too is not
a long term solution. Buy it, use it and get it processed as soon as
possible.

9. Kodachrome slides last and last. They tend not to fade or degrade over
time, and the only time I have seen that happen is with film processed by
people other than Kodak. Millions of Kodachromes are as good now as they
were when originally made. Kodachrome has a track record, other films do
not, except the aforementioned Illford materials.

Lots of things to consider when talking about Kodachrome Vs whatever.

Cheers,

RM



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