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P3D Re: PHOTO-3D digest 3511


  • From: Dan Shelley <dshelley@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Subject: P3D Re: PHOTO-3D digest 3511
  • Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:34:24 -0600

Ronald Beck wrote:
> 
> > RE:  George Dr. T..muses on Sunny 16 = incident meter, and gives
> > two examples  1. White Steps in Athens
> >                       2. Black Bears.
> > In the first..he says sunny 16 gave proper rendering of steps..BUT
> > in other exposure S1 misread, he liked the darker step rendition!
> >  On the Bears..he said sunny 16 gave good exposure overall but no
> > detail in Bears faces..which came out fine with +2 stops..but
> > EVERYTHING ELSE OVEREXPOSED! (not a very pretty slide?)
> 
> Actually, as I remember previous posts, George has stated that Sunny 16
> is a good OVERALL rule to follow.  I also recall George posting a chart

Ron,

I quickly found a chart from George on 3DCDII. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

It will work for ANY CAMERA (Realist or not!)  And if you are willing to
advance your education, here is a more accurate extention of this rule:

      Light Conditions            Shutter f-stop   Focus   Keep objects 
--------------------------------- ------- ------  -------  -------------
Sunny & bright, distinct shadows   1/100    f16    15 ft      > 7 ft
Weak sun, soft shadows, side light 1/100    f11    15 ft      > 7 ft
Cloudy bright, no shadows          1/100    f8     15 ft      > 8 ft
Heavy overcast/bright shade        1/50     f8     15 ft      > 8 ft
Dark shade                         1/50     f5.6   20 ft      > 10 ft 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This will work with ASA 100 speed.  For ASA 50 cut the speeds by half.
I have given priority to faster shutter speeds vs. smaller apertures.
There is plenty of DOF at f8!!!  Slow shutter speeds will result in
blurred pictures.

You can shoot objects closer than the indicated distances (close ups)
but then you will have to restrict the furthest objects.  Use the f8
marks of your DOF scale to see what is the depth range you can keep
your objects in.  For example, if your closest object is at 4 ft., 
then line up the f8 mark with 4 ft. and the other f8 mark reads 8 ft.  
So your depth range should be 4-8 ft.  In this case I recommend focusing
right on your subject, which usually is at the near point.

If you want to take pictures indoors with bright "office illumination" 
without a flash or a tripod, try f3.5 and 1/25.  But I would recommend
either a tripod or a flash for better results.

If you use a flash, set the camera at 1/50 and focus at 8 ft.  Set the
aperture as recommended by the flash (this will depend on how powerful
your flash is).  If there is an option for automatic mode at f8 or f11,
use this mode and aperture. You should be all set for subjects between 5 
and 15 ft.  Avoid unwanted objects (chairs, tables) close to the camera 
(they will be overexposed by the flash and will also make mounting
difficult) and, if you have an option, arrange dark object closest to
camera and bright objects the furthest.

George Themelis

PS.  This is a condensed summary of some of the ideas that will appear
in the Stereogram.  If you have not sent your check in yet, please do
it this weekend :-)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Dan Shelley
dshelley@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.dddesign.com/3dbydan