[photo-3d] Re: Scanning Realist negs

[Ralph Johnston/Linda Sherman <copley@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It is difficult to get Realist images onto the computer.  I have done it just
once.  I used color negative film, and had it processed & printed by one of
the
few labs doing that, Grand Photo in Minneapolis.  Then I scanned the prints
and
got the stereo pairs into the computer.  Some are posted on the SNE web site.

<http://www.ultranet.com/~copley/Photo3-d/cats/index.htm>http://www.ultrane
t.com/~copley/Photo3-d/cats/index.htm

The first 3 photo triplets (left-right-left) were done this way from Realist
negs.  All the other stereo pairs posted on the cats or on the 3D gallery
pages
were done with full frame (8 perf) cameras which are much easier to get
processed.  The pair of the Turner's Falls Power Canal was done with an
Olympus
C-3030 digital camera on a slide bar.

<http://www.ultranet.com/~copley/StereoNE/3dgallery.html>http://www.ultrane
t.com/~copley/StereoNE/3dgallery.html

With slide film, you either mount them yourself, or use Kodak or Sunset Labs. 
If Kodak, you have to get the address of the lab that is currently doing this,
I think now in Minneapolis.  Sunset uses Pegco slip-in mounts, which are
easier
to remount, but have film shifting problems, especially when turned over for
projection.  In order to get the images onto the computer, you might have to
buy a film scanner and scan the slides.  All I have is the HP mirror device
that lets you scan slides with any scanner.  This sells for $20.  A real film
scanner that goes up to 2400DPI would be a lot better.  Forget about scanning
negs, the orange mask is difficult to remove and even though I have a program
that does it, the colors get shifted.

Kodak won't put your 5-perf images on a PhotoCD, you have to scan them
yourself.

The StereoJet injet polarized images are not ready for the casual
photographer.  Figure on paying $100-$200 per print!

Note that the half-frame stereo cameras (Loreo/Argus/Discovery and Rittai)
will
get you print pairs on a 3.5 x 5" print that can be viewed.  The Rittai prints
have to be cut apart and mounted, while the Loreo prints are ready to view
having been transposed in the camera.  The Nimslo/Nishika format has an extra
perf between the groups of 4 images, and can be printed only by an extremely
friendly 1-hour lab.

In summary, use only full- or half-frame cameras for prints, use only slide
film in the 5 and 7 perf stereo cameras!  


-Ralph


At 01:39 AM 5/26/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Ralph,
>Jim McDonough gave me your e-mail. I recently bought a Realist and I'm
>wondering about having the photos put onto a Kodak CD. I want to manipulate
>them further in my computer but I've already encountered the problem of the
>one hour guys not being able to print a continuous roll of prints. The
>machine chops them every 6 inches no matter what. That being the case, how
>would Kodak know which frame is which? Have you ever done that? I can scan
>the negs but ofcourse the quality suffers because I don't have a really
>powerful scanner. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
>Mike Ihde
>P.S. Do you know how to make polarized prints? The first time I saw the 3D
>booth at a camera show, they had an 8 X 10 print (non-lenticular) and you
>looked at it with polarized glasses. I WANT to do that!! Thanks.
> 
*****************************************************************
*   Linda Sherman/Ralph Johnston
*   WEB PAGES http://www.ultranet.com/~copley/
*      1) Photo Historical Society of New England
*      2) Stereo New England
*      3) Auburndale Community Association
*   617-527-7562, 617-969-2760fx
*****************************************************************

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