Re: [photo-3d] Beginner's questions

["Allan Griffin" <agriffin@xxxxxxxxxx>]

TO: Paul Young

Paul, extra to what Paul Talbot says below, talk to Susan or David at
Reel-3D.  They sell an adaptor but it supplies a flash pc cord connection
only, not a hot shoe connection. (catalog No. 8401) @ $22 + post/pack

Allan Griffin


----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Talbot <ptww@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <photo-3d@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 3:47 AM
Subject: Re: [photo-3d] Beginner's questions


> Paul Young wrote:
> >
> > A couple of (several) jargon (and otherwise) questions from a
> > beginning photographer/3D photographer:
>
> Welcome to the wonderful world of stereo photography and the
> photo-3d list, Paul!
>
> > What are "RBT" mounts?
>
> RBT mounts are perhaps the highest quality mounts on the market
> today.  (Also the most expensive.)  They are made of plastic and
> feature an ingenious pin bar system for adjusting the vertical
> alignment of the two images in a stereo photo.
>
> > What does the acronym "SLR" stand for?
>
> It may depend on the context, but in photography it usually means
> "single lens reflex."  That is the type of camera that allows
> the photographer to see the image through the same lens that
> records the photograph (rather than having a separate viewvinder
> lens).
>
> > Stereo Realist question:
> >
> > How does the "Hot Shoe" flash attachment work on a Stereo Realist?
>
> Not exactly sure what you are asking.  The hot shoe on the
> realist is not compatible with modern flashes.  It can be
> modified by filing down the bump and slightly expanding the
> width.  Alternatively, an adapter can be used to attach a
> modern flash.
>
> > I've heard many instances of using an electronic flash with a
> > Realist.  How is the electronic flash triggered from this "HotShoe"?
>
> As you can see from table of contents
> http://www.rmm3d.com/funlearn/umsr_toc.html
> flash with the Realist is covered in Chapter 7
> of the book by DrT.
>
> > Any light box recommendations (style, size) for use in mounting
> > slides?
>
> You can use anything from a light table just large enough
> to hold a single stereo mount, to a full 8x10 size or
> larger table.  Tom Martin of this list has in the past
> offered via Sell-3D a fairly large table at a good price.
> For economy, try the 4x5 table that WalMart sells for
> about $15.  Downside: it's battery operated; if you don't
> already have an a/c adapter to use with it, you'll need
> to buy one separately.  For higher quality at a reasonable
> price, contact me off-list about a CCFL light panel.
>
> > How about tweezers for handling chips? Do you use them?
>
> I sometimes use tweezers, sometimes gloves, sometimes I
> just make sure I only touch the edges of the chips.
>
> > Any particular kind more practical?
>
> I suggest a sturdy tweezers, such as those that a camping
> supply store sells.
>
> > How about a magnifier for looking at the slides... necessary,
> > recommended, don't bother?
>
> Inexpensive reading glasses (try to find them for $3 or less
> if you are budget-minded; try the "dollar" stores) can be
> an aid to freeviewing while mounting, but are not required.
>
> > I just ordered some "heat seal" cardboard mounts from Reel3D. Good,
> > Bad, Ugly?
>
> Biggest advantage: they let you see 3D slides!  They are also
> inexpensive and they are a little easier to learn to use than the
> higher quality "Spicer" mounts. http://www.rmm3d.com/supplies/spicer.html
> But they have some disadvantages such as being less flexible to use,
> edges not quite as sharp as "Spicers," and allowing too much light to
> leak through the mounts.
>
> > Heat seal 'em, or just tape 'em in?
>
> Most people heat seal them, but some people tape them instead.
> Heat sealing saves the step of securely affixing the film chips,
> but may be tricky to learn to do without damaging the film.
>
> > Also trying to get to a point where
> > I have what I need for a bit... this stuff is starting to get
> > expensive.
>
> 3D equipment is one of the best bargains on the photo market
> today, IMO.  You can easily pay $500 to $1,000 for an SLR,
> but a basic Realist can be had for around $150.  And your
> Realist will most likely hold its value better than a high-
> priced new SLR.
>
> Once again, welcome to the "club," and good luck with your efforts.
> Let us know how things are going from time to time, and always feel
> free to post your questions here.
>
> Paul Talbot
>
>
>