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[photo-3d] Realist Frame Spacing
- From: mail <TCNET058@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: [photo-3d] Realist Frame Spacing
- Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:09:13 EDT
Reading the thread on Realist frame-spacing overlap problems on this
list reminded me of the same problem I had with my 3.5 Realist and how
I "fixed" it.
My 3.5 had the same trouble, sometimes it was worse than others. It
turns out that film tension on winding has a lot to do with this. I was
loading the film, then winding the loose film back so that when I would
advanced the film I would see the feed spool move indicating that the
film was moving out of the cartridge ok. On a Realist, this is not a wise
thing to do and also un-needed since the film counter provides for positive
feedback that the film is indeed moving.
After many frames that had over-lapped quite badly, I decided to try
just the opposite. I make sure that there is no drag from the feed side
of the camera when I advance the film. I do this by turning the feed spool
knob in the direction of advance travel. So there is loose film in the
cassette when you advance. This mostly solved the frame overlap problem. Now
what I see from the 3.5 is frames butting up against each other, but not
over-lapping each other. My 2.8 Realist behaves even better using the
"slack film advance" method.
When I got my first 35mm I had gotten into the habit of winding the slack
out of the cassette so that I could see the film feeding as I would advance
to the next frame. The old SRT-101 never had a problem with frame spacing
even with 36 exposure rolls. All I can think is that the film advance in the
Realist is not quite as robust as my 101. But at any rate, the more loose
the film is in the cassette, the better for avoiding frame overlap in a
Realist.
-Fred Sole
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