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[photo-3d] Re: Anaglyphs


  • From: wes@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: [photo-3d] Re: Anaglyphs
  • Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 03:58:19 -0000

--- In photo-3d@xxxx, "Gabriel Jacob" <gjacob@xxxx> wrote:
> Ralph writes:
> >I just printed up a few 8x10" b&w anaglyphs with my Epson Photo 
870.  They
> >are really great and are just as good as viewing them on the 
screen.
> 
> I agree! Anaglyph prints from a good color ink jet printer are 
awesome! I've
> been printing anaglyphs on my old Epson 600 with great results 
these past
> few years, but seriously am thinking of upgrading, since with the 
newer
> printers, the quality will be even better! A lot has been said about
> stereojets but I find B&W anaglyphs to look just as good. 
Admittedly color
> anaglyphs are usually problematic.

> 
> Gabriel

Here's one that works great...at least with Epson printers.  Try 
printing an anaglyph on transparency media instead of paper.  I 
recommend Kodak transparency media because you can compensate for the 
reduced saturation of the colors when viewing a transparency, by 
printing the reverse side (carefully matching up the alignment to 
prevent double--or should I say quadruple images).  Kodak is the only 
source I've found that offers transparency media coated on both 
sides.  Of all the brands of transparency media I've tried, Epson and 
Pictorico offer the greatest saturation without bleeding (I've made 
up special custom color profiles to squeeze the most of it for 
density and color when I want to print on transparency media).  But 
like most others, they are coated only on one side.  But, the irony 
is that while Kodak offers slightly weaker saturation, and by the 
way, remains sticky for quite awhile like their darned glossy paper, 
nevertheless it far exceeds the others when printed on both sides.  
The reverse side must be printed in reverse of course.  I converge 
the front and back sides without wasting the transparency sheets by 
first printing in a coarse dpi on some cheap 20 lb. paper that's 
exactly the same size and holding it up to a light.  If necessary, I 
move the feed stack a little one way or the other until both sides 
align.  I've made a tiny black line on my printer deck to show where 
the right edge of the paper must generally be to calibrate 
correctly.  But the end result is really a hoot.  By holding the 
transparency up with an evenly lighted white wall or such behind, 
you'll actually get less ghosting than with any paper media!  I would 
go as far as to say that any ghosting you would see in a conventional 
high-quality paper print is just about gone, and the concept of 
holding a stereo window in your hand that you're actually looking 
through is great, and not too expensive!

Wes  


 

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