Mailinglist Archives:
Infrared
Panorama
Photo-3D
Tech-3D
Sell-3D
MF3D
|
|
Notice |
This mailinglist archive is frozen since May 2001, i.e. it will stay online but will not be updated.
|
|
[photo-3d] Re: Anaglyphs
- From: wes@xxxxxxx
- Subject: [photo-3d] Re: Anaglyphs
- Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 03:58:19 -0000
--- In photo-3d@xxxx, "Gabriel Jacob" <gjacob@xxxx> wrote:
> Ralph writes:
> >I just printed up a few 8x10" b&w anaglyphs with my Epson Photo
870. They
> >are really great and are just as good as viewing them on the
screen.
>
> I agree! Anaglyph prints from a good color ink jet printer are
awesome! I've
> been printing anaglyphs on my old Epson 600 with great results
these past
> few years, but seriously am thinking of upgrading, since with the
newer
> printers, the quality will be even better! A lot has been said about
> stereojets but I find B&W anaglyphs to look just as good.
Admittedly color
> anaglyphs are usually problematic.
>
> Gabriel
Here's one that works great...at least with Epson printers. Try
printing an anaglyph on transparency media instead of paper. I
recommend Kodak transparency media because you can compensate for the
reduced saturation of the colors when viewing a transparency, by
printing the reverse side (carefully matching up the alignment to
prevent double--or should I say quadruple images). Kodak is the only
source I've found that offers transparency media coated on both
sides. Of all the brands of transparency media I've tried, Epson and
Pictorico offer the greatest saturation without bleeding (I've made
up special custom color profiles to squeeze the most of it for
density and color when I want to print on transparency media). But
like most others, they are coated only on one side. But, the irony
is that while Kodak offers slightly weaker saturation, and by the
way, remains sticky for quite awhile like their darned glossy paper,
nevertheless it far exceeds the others when printed on both sides.
The reverse side must be printed in reverse of course. I converge
the front and back sides without wasting the transparency sheets by
first printing in a coarse dpi on some cheap 20 lb. paper that's
exactly the same size and holding it up to a light. If necessary, I
move the feed stack a little one way or the other until both sides
align. I've made a tiny black line on my printer deck to show where
the right edge of the paper must generally be to calibrate
correctly. But the end result is really a hoot. By holding the
transparency up with an evenly lighted white wall or such behind,
you'll actually get less ghosting than with any paper media! I would
go as far as to say that any ghosting you would see in a conventional
high-quality paper print is just about gone, and the concept of
holding a stereo window in your hand that you're actually looking
through is great, and not too expensive!
Wes
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|