Re: Inconspicuous flash?

[Joe Berenbaum <joe-b@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

At 22:38 30/09/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I'm wondering what results I could expect with the following scenario:
>Equipment-
>Minolta body (SRT102 and/or XGM)
>50/f1.7 or 28/2.8
>Vivitar 283
>Kodak Wratten 29 over flash
>Kodak HIE
>Handheld
>Scene-
>Jazz bands playing in a fairly dark nightclub (I would have to shoot 
>tmax3200 @ 1600 and 1/30th second wide open on a 50mm f1.7).
>Even the TMZ yields pretty lousy negs. Thin and lacking detail. Lots of 
>movement blur.
>Flash sync on these cameras is 1/60th. I can live with that.
>Questions-
>Has anyone tried something similar? I'm particularly perplexed about how 
>to use the 283's automatic functions. Or should I forget that and go with 
>full manual output? Do I dare bounce off the 12' ceiling? Suggested film 
>speed?
>In case it isn't obvious I don't want to fire off a flash in the eyes of 
>the musicians and patrons. I also don't want to try and focus on the fly 
>through a red filter.
>I have tried the scientific experiment of firing the filtered flash in my 
>windowless bathroom. It's definately a flash but the red is far less 
>offensive than pure white. I'm pretty sure it won't blind anybody.
>If I/we can work out the details I would be happy to let everyone know 
>how it worked out and what the specifics were.
> Sean O'Neil         

Here's what I'd do- try this setup in your home after dark, with any
object/s as the main subject, recreate the ambient light levels you expect
to encounter, put yourself at the kind of distance from the main subject
that you expect to be, and with the flash on manual, bracket with the
aperture ring from maximum to minimum and make notes of the distance and
apertures used. From the results you should get a pretty good idea of how
this setup will work, and what the aperture setting needs to be. 

Joe Berenbaum

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