Re: Sprocket Shadows

["Des Crawley" <d.crawley@xxxxxxxxxx>]

What you have described sounds like developer surge marks. I have had the
problem you . It was never an issue until about two years ago when I think
I must have purchased a really crappy batch of the film since everyone here
in Australia who works with HIE suddenly found at or about this time all
sorts of handling hassles and processing problems with the film we had
enjoyed for years.  

In my case i the marks which sounds very much like what you have described 
were not  light formed but derived from  too aggressive  an agitation of
the film linked to  the action of pouring the D76 into the film developer
tank in the conventional manner. 

I have  eliminated the surge marks (which only appeared on the bottom reel,
in any event)  by a 2 minute wash prior to development. Then having loaded
a spare tank with the developer and in total darkness, of course I 
transferred the presoaked film to the developer by simply easing the film
(on  its  spline)  into the developer -I do this very gently- and then plac
e on the tank lid and  proceed  to develop as usual.

Occasionally, when I have a large batch of film that includes areas of mid
tone grey I also ,as an insurance measure ,dilute the D76 developer 1:1 and
double the recommended development time. This combined with the "slow dunk"
strategy above has eliminated surge marks which I think  are  what you have
described.

Des

> From: Marc Turner <mturner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: INFRARED@xxxxx
> Subject: Re:  Sprocket Shadows
> Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 4:19
> 
>      >I have noticed rather pronounced light-dark patterns across the top

>      >of some of my images that match the sprocket holes in the HIE.  I 
>      >don't believe I have seen this when I expose in my usual camera 
>      >(Nikon 8008s).  It shows up in the panoramic format.  I use the 135

>      >panoramic adapter in a Mamiya 6MF range finder.  The pattern shows 
>      >that the sprocket hole seem to cast a shadow into the image area .
>      >(goes in about 10% of frame height or less). It's as though light
is 
>      >leaking in along the whole edge of the film, but is blocked by the 
>      >holes before getting to the image area.  Strangely, I see no
evidence 
>      >of exposure beyond the image area.  Perhaps there is not enough
light 
>      >to overcome base plus fog in unexposed regions, but it's noticeable

>      >where exposure has already occurred (like pre-flashing).  Any ideas

>      >about what's causing this and how to stop it.  It is ruining those 
>      >images that have the relatively clear zone III skies across the
top.
>      >Thanks,
>      >EltonK
>      
>      
>      
>      Someone on another list, I believe it was PhotoForum or possibly on 
>      the Jobo site, was having a similar problem with streaks around 
>      sprocket holes.  I don't recall who provided the following response,

>      but I made a copy for my own possible future reference.  Here is
what 
>      they said:
>      -- Marc
>      
>      "Most streaks I've seen result from agitation problems. Essentially 
>      what happens is that active developer swirls through the 
>      holes--sprocket holes in 35mm or the drain holes in large format
film 
>      hangers. The swirling developer agitates more than the relatively 
>      still developer in other areas. The streaks are overdeveloped areas
of 
>      film. Eliminating the holes won't work. I want to keep using metal 
>      hangers, and I can't think of a way to eliminate the sprocket holes 
>      from 35 mm! Hmm.. An advantage of 120? 
>      A Solution - The approach I've taken to eliminate streaks is based
on 
>      advice I got from Ilford's tech support department. They said that 
>      most streaking was caused during early development (first couple of 
>      minutes). So limiting agitation during the critical first minute 
>      reduces streaks, and has little affect on total development or 
>      contrast. Here's my current strategy: 
>      Use developer/ dilution/ temperature combinations that keep 
>      development times long. (8 minutes or longer is my rule.) 
>      Pre-wet the film--even 35mm. 
>      Be gentle getting the film into the developer. (Don't use a "slam 
>      dunk" to get the film into the developer fast. No quick immersion of

>      the 35mm development reel--no dropping the film holders into the 
>      tank.) 
>      Agitate once right away (gently) to get any bubbles off the film (I 
>      just bang the tank on the table to knock any bubbles loose). 
>      Don't agitate at all during the first minute, and only lightly
agitate 
>      during the first two minutes. (This is the important part; one tank 
>      inversion.) 
>      Use normal agitation for the rest of the development so contrast is 
>      consistent. For me normal agitation is 4 tank inversions. 
>      With sheet film in holders, keep the film holders separated a little

>      so that developer won't be forced in and out through the bottom
holes. 
>      These changes to my development routine have largely eliminated 
>      streaks."
> *
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