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Re: stop bath
Date sent: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 06:56:45 +0200 (MET DST)
From: owner-infrared-digest@xxxxx (Infrared-Digest)
To: infrared-digest@xxxxx
Subject: Infrared-Digest V #125
Send reply to: infrared@xxxxx
From: Infrared-Digest@xxxxx
> > I am presently using water as a stop bath in my IR film developing with good
> > results. I was wondering if I could do the same with prints rather than an acid
> > stop bath? Has anyone out there used H20 as a stop bath and with what results.
> > The paper developer I am using is Edwall Ultra Black.
>
> I've never used water as a stop bath, because it really doesn't stop the
> development, but slows it down. When developing film, I feel the need to
> stop the development precisely.
>
> However, if you insist, water can be used as an intermediary step between
> the developer and the fix. The problem is that not using a real stop bath
> will definitely reduce the capacity of your fixer. The stop bath not only
> stops the development, but also neutralizes the components from your
> developer, thus extending the lifetime of your fixer. Not using a stop
> bath really isn't the recommended practice.
>
> Cheers -
>
> george
>
I have to echo George here, the other problem to point out is that
not using an acid stop will bring developer chemical into the fixer.
This is when you start getting ammonia type fumes and raspberry
chemical stains on prints. Of course it reduces the life of the fixer,
but you ruin more prints by having to deal with the stains caused
by contamination. This kind of contamination also happens when
you do not keep the print in the stop long enough, I always use a
full minute ( I keep my stop half strength to be less harsh on film
and fume-wise, so less than that might be fine for a full strength
bath) and as I'm sure every teacher recommends, really adequate
drainage between chemical baths is also a part of keeping
contamination to a minimum.
Happy Printing
Amber
ambersexton@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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