Re: Filters with Konica... need suggestions!

[Luvdove6@xxxxxxx]

In a message dated 8/6/99 1:16:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
rivelli@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

> Holly-
>  
>  Slow down! You were on the right road originally; go back to where you
>  started, take a deep breath, and begin again.
>  
>  1. The # 25 filter with Konica 750 gives very good results. Lighter filters
>  like orange # 22, yellow # 8 etc. also work, but give more subtle results.
>  That is, pale gray instead of white foliage, dark gray water instead of
>  black. The # 87, 89B and other IR filters are a problem because the film
>  has so little sensitivity in the region where they tranmit rays. They will
>  work, but you have to give even more exposure than with the # 25.
>  
>  Stick with the # 25 until you have more experience with the film.
>  
>  2.  Konica 750 and the Kodak films (HIE and HSI) are very different.
>  Sensitivity to different wavelengths, different contrast, different grain
>  structure.
>  
>  For example, Konica has a recommended speed of ISO 32 (what you would set a
>  hand-held meter at; NOT necessarily where you would set a through-the-lens
>  meter --that's a whole other topic) when used without a filter. When using
>  the # 25 filter with Konica you have to give two stops more exposure,
>  making the film speed ISO 8.
>  
>  The recommended speed of Kodak IR films is ISO 80 without a filter. Because
>  of the different sensitivity to red light compared to Konica 750, when you
>  use the # 25 filter with HIE/HSI you need to give only 2/3 of a stop more
>  exposure. And the tonalities and contrast of each film will be very
>  different.
>  
>  3.  There should be NO "haze"! It's something else.
>  
>  Put the camera on a tripod, make sure the lens and filters are reasonably
>  clean, have the sun at your back (it's not necessary to be up before
>  sunrise or wait until sundown), bracket your exposures +/- 1/2 stop and +/-
>  one stop,keep good notes, develop the film for the recommended time and
>  evaluate the negatives.
>  
>  If they are "hazy", check your camera and darkroom for fogging from light
>  or IR. Put some film in your camera and take it out into the sun for a
>  while. Don't expose it. Develop it. Place a piece of unexposed film on the
>  counter in your darkroom for three minutes. Develop it. Both films should
>  be clear. (IR rays were going right through my darkroom door until I
>  discovered it).
>  
>  4.  Take more pictures and keep notes. Your aim is to find a correct
>  exposure so that with only a +/- 1/2 stop bracket you can get consistently
>  good negatives. Check your exposure meter against some others; meters are
>  frequently off by as much as a stop.
>  
>  Adjust the developing time so that you can get negatives which YOU can
>  print easily, to look the way that YOU want them to look. If necessary,
>  change to another developer and start again.
>  
>  5.  There's nothing wrong with outdated film if it has been kept
>  refrigerated. Test a roll against a fresh roll to see if there is any
>  difference. Photograph the same subject and develop them the same. If the
>  outdated film is okay, buy a bunch and freeze it. I'm still using film that
>  "expired" years ago.
>  
>  That should do it. Be methodical and consistent and KEEP GOOD NOTES and you
>  should have few problems.

Thank you so much, William!
I'll try these things you suggested!  And I'll just use my 87 filter for 
Kodak HIE film!

~Holly~
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