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Re: Thin negatives
Catherine,
As Willem said, daylight exposures of f11 at 1/25 of a sec. for daylight
exposures sounds correct for a #25 (or #29) red filter. You might also try
f11 @ 1/60. As for pyro, I assume you do mean PMK, I process my film at 77F
for 12:30. This is not a happen stance temperature/time combination, it is
well established for me. I process at 77F since I can always make my water
bath this temperature winter or summer. If you want to continue to use 70F
increase the 12:30 development time by 4% for every degree lower than 77F.
In other words, 12.5 min x 60 sec = 750 secs and 750 secs x 1.28 = 960 secs
which equals 16 minutes. So 16 mins @ 70F.
I know this sounds like a long development time but it will work. I would
test a roll keeping carefull notes of your exposure times (bracket over a
wide series o f stops at the same shutter speed for several different
lighting scenes, consume the entire roll) and then process in PMK at the
suggested time/temp above. Try to choose a subject that has at least a 4 to
5 stop subject brightness range (normal contrast range for bright sunny
light except for very light toned objects). You should be able to zero in on
the frame that has good shadow detail for each scene and that doesn't have
extremely dense highlights. Once you know which frames looks best you should
be able to derive a E.I. based on your notes. Once you establish an exposure
constant for bright daylight scenes then you can extrapolate exposures for
open shade, closed shade, and overcast conditions (actually I avoid overcast
light for IR as I've learned that most of the time it doesn't look very
good).
If you would like I can bring some negatives to the club meeting Friday
night or at the SIG meeting this month. Please let me know if I can help.
Don
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