Re: In praise of Konica 750

[Sid Barras <sbarris@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

paul vandepitte wrote:
> 
> Can you give more specific data on development time/temperature of both Maco
> and Konica? Also the ISO's for Konica are lacking...
> 
> Tnx
> 
> Paul

Hi Paul:

I've been using D 76 for both maco and Konica. ( I experimented a little
with Xtol, but I think I need to get locked in on D 76's habits before I
venture off into the wilderness.)
I always use 68°F for temp. (Sometimes I drop and ice cube in the soup,
swirl it around, and take it out to achieve the right temp.)

Regarding Konica, this is what has been working for me:
ISO 6 with a red #25 or a #29. At first I used ISO 4 with the #29, but
it seems to me that when using infrared film, there's not that much
difference in the two filters. Now, sometimes, I'll use the exposure
meter on the camera (without the filter on), set at 6 ISO. But then,
sometimes, I'll set the ISO on the meter to 50, then subtract the filter
factors ( I use 2 and two thirds stops for both filters.) It seems to be
OK both ways. But I must admit, my record keeping is sometimes sloppy.
When I use the 89B wratten filter (equivalent to the Hoya R72, so I've
read somewhere) I use ISO 3. (Get out the tripod.)

When the Konica goes in the soup, I go with 6 minutes on D76 stock and
8.5 minutes diluted 1:1. Now, I should mention that I generally don't
start the timer until I've agitated the film for 10-15 seconds, and I
always pour the developer out after the timer goes off, and it takes
another 10-15 seconds to get the stop solution poured in, so you could
say that the "real" development times are probably 30-45 seconds longer.
Sometimes, if it was a particularly overcast day, I even add an extra
minute to development times, to make sure I get some detail in the
shadows. And thereby give myself trouble with very dense negs too, of course.

Also, whenever I take "people" pictures with Konica, I use an orange
(wratten #23A) filter and rate it at 18, with good results. these have
all been outdoor portraits taken in open shade. (completely shady, but
not dense shade. What I like to call "bright shady".) Not too much "wood
effect", but the skin tones look OK. Very much like a regular
panchromatic film, if you ask me.

Maco, I'm using it at about 1 stop faster than Konica when using the
89B, and 2 stops faster with the #25 or #29. I soup it for 12 minutes in
D76 at 68°F. Like I said in my first post, I'm still getting some
inconsistency in my results with Maco, and haven't really paid enough
attention yet to figure out why yet. I'm hoping enough people will post
their testing results with this film to help me along the way.
Regards,
Sid B
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