Mailinglist Archives:
Infrared
Panorama
Photo-3D
Tech-3D
Sell-3D
MF3D
|
|
Notice |
This mailinglist archive is frozen since May 2001, i.e. it will stay online but will not be updated.
|
|
[MF3D.FORUM:726] I need a MF 3D Dr.
- From: "Bill Glickman" <bglick@xxxxxxxx>
- Subject: [MF3D.FORUM:726] I need a MF 3D Dr.
- Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 23:40:56 -0700
Hi folks, I just finished my testing.... need help again... just can not
seem to get stereo images to fuse, when using two cameras following John B's
formula. Here is my problems
1. I am using two M7's with perfectly matched 80mm lenses. When I use each
camera seperately and shoot the left and then a right shot with 65mm lens
spacing it works perfect every time. True with both cameras. This worked
perfectly before Alan modified my viewer and also after he modified my
viewer, so no change.
2. When I use both cameras simultaneously on a slide bar with inter ocular
spacing as per John B's formula, I can not get the chromes to completely
fuse. I followed the formula to a T...had a tape measure with me, and did
NOT violate any aspect of the formula or stereo base. I have the same basic
problem...I can not get all subjects in the scene to fuse at once.... it
seems they will all fuse, but seperately. I fuse one subject and loose
another.... then when I fuse certain ones, I start getting the double edges
on the left and right again. (a lot of this double edge image seems to have
cleared up after Alan Lewis corrected my viewer lens spacing)
3. When mounting the chromes, I notice something odd.... when Paul Talbot
was here, he showed me the use of the mount gauge. Setting the nearest
subject to the near line and furthest to the far line.... Both can NOT be
satisfied at once with the John B spacing. (Is this normal? ) And it does
not matter if I mount to the near or the far, I still can not get everything
to fuse at once.
4. Greg Erker advised to take one camera for the left shot and then move it
over and bring the other camera in for the right shot, maintaining 65mm
interocular spacing. I felt this was an excellent "process of elimination"
test. I did this, and voila it works. That is why I wonder if the formula
could be ill advised. Here is some examples of the near and far in feet and
the stereo base in inches I have been using...
N F Base "
10 26 6.5
10 23 7.1
10 20 8.0
10 17 9.7
10 14 14.0
10 13 17.3
Maybe the formula needs tweaking??? I doubted this since so many people
including David Lee have used this successfully?
Some basics, I am focussing on identical subjects, same f stops,
simultaneous shutter firing, I am using a Jaspar engineering 24" stereo bar
with built in level, I checked the left / right part of the level with
another level, it is true, I always level the shot left / right, but
sometimes tilt the camera down for a scene. For this test, there was no
infinity in any of the shots.
After I concluded that the mounting gauge would not work, I mounted the
left chrome and moved the right chrome up and down till things fused
verticaly, pretty easy to see that.... then I moved the same chrome left and
right, and no matter how many places I put it, I can not find one place
where everything is fused! I was viewing this over a light box with the
viewing lenses from my Saturn viewer. I just removed the lens panel and
used it for a viewing aid since this would duplicate what I see in the
viewer.
One other tid bit they may help someone diagnose my problem. One shot
of a small waterfall in my backyard with larges stones sticking out, (as
steps for the water falling) seem to appeared backwards. In other words,
instead of the rocks sticking out at you, they seem to be inverted, or
pulled backwards, like they were indented vs. protruding? That was strange,
but I felt it may provide a clue to solve my never ending mystery.
I am leaving for a long photo trip and have been trying to get this worked
out for the past 6 weeks but just keep failing. Any input would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you all.....
Regards
Bill G
|