Re: AC viewer bulbsBlazing Buttons

[John Dukes <dukes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> 
> John Dukes asks:
> 
> >But my question is whether there is a perceptible difference between
> >the quasi point source of the halogen bulb and the more distributed
> >(quasi diffuse) source of the bigger bulb. 
> 
> The quasi point source of the halogen bulb tends to cast shadows of the
> filament-supporting wires.  That's why the forsted glass is a great idea
> (actually transforms the quasi point to a quasi diffused source).  The size
> of the source will only affect the light uniformity.  However, there are
> other differences between the two bulbs, not related to the size of the
> source.  The AC bulbs tend to give warmer (read: orange) light.
> 
> Using a 75V bulb at 120V is a solution for getting brighter and more white
> light.  The orginal bulb in the AC viewers was rated 80V.  My 75V bulbs
> will not take much abuse (turning them on cold at 120V is abuse in my book)
> and I recommend turning them on at a lower voltage and then increase it, or
> even running them as less than full power on a routine basis.
> 
> John, when you apply 140V to the 120V bulb, do you increase the voltage
> slowly or do you just start it at 140VC?  What's your experiece on the life
> of the 120V bulb running at 140V?
> 
> George Themelis
> 
> 
Apologies to all as required: The original title of my entry was (as
hopefully it came out this time) "Blazing Buttons", not (as it arrived 
here) "Blazing Butt" (!)

Butt I digress.

In answer to George's question: I've been using a full voltage start, and
I've only had to replace the bulb once. How many hours does that 
represent? Don't know, but it's way, way past the aggravation limit.
Further point: I'm using 180 volts, not 140, and the light is very
satisfyingly white. (Kelvin).

John Dukes




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