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Nimslo modification
Ok folks, here's the Nimslo follow up. Like the man says, this is
strictly an experimental process. Don't do it unless you're prepared to
trash a camera in the interests of science. No step-by-step instructions
are available. Good luck. --Elliott
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"He (Alan Lewis) might have a UK camera, but that's not the problem. He's
talking about the gear that mates with the gear that gets modified. Under
no circumstances should he try to modify that gear."
[Note: The UK cameras are not the same as the Japanese cameras on the
inside. Most experimenters seem to prefer the Japanese version for
modification. --E.S.]
"I recommend a little clarification of the original message. It was not
intended as a do-it-yourself guide for modifying your own Nimslo. The
discussion of gear teeth was merely intended to indicate the feasibility
of doing such a modification. The modification should be undertaken
only by people who are familiar with the interior of the Nimslo, or by
people who are competent at repairing or modifying cameras in general,
OR by people who have a spirit of adventure and a Nimslo that they are
prepared to write off as tuition in case they wreck it.
The first time I read about Burder and his modifications of Nimslos,
which he modestly described as having been done with a hacksaw, I
decided that, being moderately proficient with a hacksaw, I would try it
myself. After considerable meditation and bungling around, I found my
way into the interior of the Nimslo. I immediately realized that I
didn't want to attack it with a hacksaw, so I abandoned that goal right
then. My new goal was to get it reassembled and working. That only
took me about three years. I didn't have the Nimslo repair manual yet.
Back to Alan Lewis and his 16-tooth gear. The gear that mates with the
16-tooth gear has 36 teeth. It turns 1/3 of a revolution per 4-frame
advance cycle. 1/3 of a revolution on a 36-tooth gear is 12 teeth. It
would seem that to go only 3 frames, one (not "we") would need to remove
3 of the 12 teeth in each 120-degree sector of the gear. However since
the gears have more than one tooth engaged at a time, it is necessary to
remove 4 teeth in order to get the gears to disengage and re-engage at
the proper interval.
As I told you earlier, I have now done that, and it works. I'll send
the camera to you early next week.
Anyone else who tries this modification does so at his own risk. I
don't claim to have told anyone how to do it. All I have done is to
indicate and demonstrate the feasibility of such a modification."
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