PSA Stereo Card Circuit --Plus Stereo Cards

[P3D Bill C Walton <bill3dbw3d@xxxxxxxx>]

Hi Andy
Andy Burr wrote concerning mounting stereo cards, archival mounts from
QVu, Prints from Realist -format cameras:
        I think that a full discussion of mounting stereo cards would
take up to much space on P3D.  There have been several articles published
in Stereo World and in June 1996 there was a good card mounting article
in the PSA Journal.  If you want copies send me an EMail and I will dig
them out and reproduce  them for you.  
        A couple of general guidelines on mounting stereo cards:
        1.  There are no international standards for stereo cards.  3
1/2" x  7" is the accepted size in international exhibitions.  However
many folks make them 4, 4 1/2  or even 5 inches high.  Whatever you like!
        2.  Card Stock - Archival quality is recommended but I don't
believe most stereographers use that material.  I use illustration board
which I buy at an art supply house.  They cut it to 7" length and I cut
it to whatever height strikes my fancy. QVu Archival mounts are not
archival.  But if you are making color stereo cards this is probably not
a consideration as the colors will fade long before the mount
deteriorates.
As far as color is concerned-Your choice.  That is part of the charm of
stereo cards- Everyone does their own thing.  I use black 99% of the
time.  It "appears" to increase the contrast of my BW images, plus it
doesn't show fingerprints and dirt like light colored mounts do.  There
have been some big discussions over the years about how the color of the
mount should reflect/contrast with the color of the print.  But I don't
think that is a concern.

        3.  Mounting medium-  Archivists recommend wheat paste.  But I
find it almost impossible to use  it.  You have to cook it and it makes a
mess going on the card.  I believe the antique cards were mounted while
damp and then put in a press.  I use dry mount tissue and a dry mount
press because it looks neat and so far seems to be doing what it is
supposed to.  Other folks use adhesive spray, double sided carpet tape
and as someone mentioned UHU glue.  DON'T USE RUBBER CEMENT!
        4. Width of images-Don't make the images more than 3" inches wide
as any bigger causes viewing problems for some folks.  I print mine 2 
and 14/16:"s wide and mount them with a small gap between them.  
        5. Separation of homogeneous distant points - This little item
has been debated for many many years and again there is no standard.
75-80mm  between these points is a standard held by many and my cards are
Usually in this range.  But some folks advocate much larger/and or much
smaller separation.  The antique cards vary from 65mm to sometimes 100. 
But when you get in the upper ranges some folks cannot easily fuse the
images.
        6. Corner rounders vs square corners.  There are many folks who
use corner rounders for both their cards and their images.  I think that
PD3 Carole Honigsfeld can give you an address for a reasonably priced
corner rounder, if you are interested.  I believe in square corners for
both cards and images.  Until 1868 all cards had square corners and many
continued up until the late 1880s.  As far as the concern over damaging
the square corners, I really don't think that is a problem.  The oldest
card in my collection was produced in July 1862, has square  corners and
is holding up very well thank you.  It is of a Lion statue in Flensburg
Germany.  I bought it at NSA Philly in 1987 and notes on the rear
indicate it had been in Chicago and Seattle.
        Enough on cards, let's talk about cameras.  Any stereo camera is
suitable for producing stereo negatives  to use for stereo cards. I favor
the Realist, because it is so strong and has given me such good service.
I worked 9 years in the pUblic Affairs Office at nearby Fort Benning. Par
of my duties included taking soldier pictures and I always took my
Realist with me in some decidedly adverse conditions, where  ever the
Infantry went, and it never failed me.  I put 35 rolls of Plus X  thru
one of my Realists in two months while working on my 3-d picture book of
Infantry Basic Training without any problems.  Of course the 3.5 Realist
does vignette at F11 & above, but I usually can enlarge the dark corners
out of the final images
..
The PSA Stereo Card Circuit has 13 members at present and is open to
anyone who is a PSA member.  Subject matter can be color or BW and
members use both QVU and conventional openfaced mounts.The way it works
is simplicity in itself.  When a member receives the box of stereo cards
they remove their old entry, which will have comments by the other
members on it (This is the feedback), look at and comment on the other
cards in the box box (called a folio) add a comment to the notebook which
accompanies the folio,  add their new entry, fill out and send me a
tracking card (we don't vote on positions) and mail the box to the next
person on the list.  The box then continues on it's never ending circuit
and depending on how many members are in the circuit, will return in 3 or
4 months, or possibly longer.  This system has been used in the UK Stereo
Society since 1893 and in the US since 1919.  It is a superb means of
communication and many long distant friendships have developed over the
years.

PSA membership costs $45.00 per year and they publish a monthly magazine.
If anyone wants a PSA application let me know by Email and I'll send one.
 The cost  for membership in the PSA Stereo Card Circuit is only $4.00 a
year and each member pays their own postage.  We welcome new members and
I think it is  a great way to learn more about making stereo cards.

And last but not least - PD3 Carole Honigsfeld said she was glad I was
bringing my Expertise to photo-3d.
I appreciate her saying that but I need to make a little correction. She
had the first letter "E" right, but a better selection of words would be
Enthusiasm & Energy.  Anyway, I like stereo cards and am more that happy
to help others learn about the classic stereo format
YOURS IN DEPTH  - BILL C WALTON

George- If this is to long I'll try not to be so long winded next time.


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