Self Publishing a Stereo Book (My thoughts on the matter)

[P3D Bill C Walton <bill3dbw3d@xxxxxxxx>]

Pick a subject that you are completely familiar with or
one on which you can obtain FREE expert Advice. I
spent over 30 years in the Army and then 9 years in 
the Fort Benning Public Affairs Office publicizing 
Infantry training and felt I was qualified to produce
"BACK TO BASICS'".  But before I try the next one, on 
Columbus, GA. I am going to do a lot of coordination
with the Historic Columbus Foundation, the Columbus
Museum, the local newspapers and the archives at 
Columbus State University.

Give your business a name and get a local business
license.  This gives you increased credibility when 
talking to people and allows you to deduct most of your 
business expenses.  I Picked the name Mucogee 3-D
because I live in Muscogee County and I liked the 
sound of the name.

Get written permission to do your project from the proper
authority, whatever the subject.  Almost everything belongs 
to somebody and if you don't get written permission, you 
are subject to being sued.  In my case I had to get permission
from the Department of the Army and I had to agree to take 
the stereographs on a non-interference basis.

Get a model release before you trip the shutter or you may 
cause yourself some grief.  All subjects, unless they are public
property (and sometimes even then) need a model release.
Not just people, but houses, objects, people's cars etc.  If 
you are going to use a stereograph in a book you need to have 
a model release on file.  It doesn't have to be fancy.  Many photo
books show a sample model release.  In my case my models 
were government property and "Uncle Sam" gave me a model 
for them.  However, I did get a model release from the 3 
civilians pictured in my book.

Make a shooting script and list all possible stereographs (but 
always add to it if you see a "shot you just can't resist"). Have 
 a logical start and finish.  Give yourself more than enough time 
to do the project.  Believe me, the light won't be right the first time
or some other problem will cause you to come back again and
again.  Don't limit your efforts to daylight hours, night stereographs
can be very effective.The Physical Training tests for my subjects
took place at 4 am, to prevent heat injuries.  So I had to get up
early a few mornings, but that is "part of the deal"

Use the proper stereo base for your subjects.  Standard "Realist 
type" stereo cameras are suitable for people pictures.  That is what i
used except where I used a motor-driven Canon A-1 for a
hyperstereo of a barracks.  If your subjects are going to be buildings,
bridges, landscapes , etc.  use two cameras separated by more than
the standard 2 1/2 inches and shoot hyperstereos to give an increase
in the apparent depth of your stereographs. How much separation
depends on what you are shooting and your personal taste.  I know
there are formulas, but a little experimentation will soon show you 
how much separation suits you and the subject.  If you are using 
two 35mm cameras, mount them so they are shooting in the vertical
format.

If you are doing a black & white book, and have a darkroom, then I 
suggest you do your own printing of the stereographs because you
are the only one who knows what you want.  Print the stereographs 
on paper which is less contrasty than you normally like to view in
a stereoscope.  Contrast is increase by the printing process and 
stereographs which look a little gray tend to end up looking just fine
when printed.  In the case of color, do it yourself or find a good 
custom lab.Grand Photo of Minneapolis might make you a deal.
Be sure the stereographs are properly mounted.

Don't make the text too lengthy.  Remember this is a stereo picture 
book and the stereographs are the main thing.  Have a strong 
stereograph for the cover and the back and don't use them again
in the book.  I did not have a stereograph on the back of my first book,
but I will from now on.

Make up a "dummy" with all the titles, credits, text and stereographs
in the proper order and get estimates from several printers on the 
cost.  My book was $1000 cheaper in  Florida than in Columbus, 
and that included shipping costs.  Ask the printing companies for a
sample of their work, particularly pictures.  The cost depends a lot 
on the number of copies. The more you order, the cheaper the cost
per book.

Work closely with the printer you decide on and double check all steps
along the way.  Remember your name is going to be on the book and 
you want it to be good.

Publicize your book through all possible channels.  STEREO WORLD"
and the PSA JOURNAL  are a great place to start, but all sorts of 
magazines and newspapers that deal with your subject warrant a 
classified ad.  New to me, but obviously an outlet that needs no 
introduction to this group are web sites which will probably
reach more people than all the other forms of advertisement.  
Send copies of your book to various publications that you think 
might give you a review and in turn increase your visibility.  Don't
forget the foreign markets.3-D Magazin in Germany gave me a 
very favorable review which resulted in several sales in Europe.

Enjoy what you are doing.  If you are producing a book to make money,
you may be disappointed. But if you are producing one because you
want to and because you think it should be done, then you will have a
good time and be proud of your product.

REMEMBER - FILM IS THE CHEAPEST PART OF THE WHOLE OPERATION
AND STAY AWAY FROM RAW OYSTERS.

BILL C WALTON
bill3dbw3d@xxxxxxxx

MUSCOGEE 3-D
'"The best in black & white stereography"


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