Re: Solvent for Shutter Cleaning

[P3D Bill Davis <bd3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

>>.................  I used a very low viscosity solvent
>>to flush the shutters.  Better living through chemistry.
>
>So what is the solvent of choice for flushing the shutters? Is the point to
>remove  all 'gunk', and leave the shutter basically clean, bare metal.  Or
>are you also trying to leave behind some type of lubricant/film?
>I assume there are certain parts that do require some type of lubricant.

The solvent I used (because I had some on hand) was toluene (C.A.S.
no.108-88-3).  Similar in viscosity and solvency would be Xylene (C.A.S.
no. 1330-20-7), Methyl Ethyl Ketone a.k.a. 2-butanone (C.A.S. no. 78-93-3)
or Acetone. A few others, too. 

All of these will readily strip any gunk, oil or grease from tight spaces,
like between leaf shutters.  They can also dissolve rubber and plastics, so
use them on metal parts only. The drawback is that they are HIGHLY
FLAMMABLE and HIGHLY VOLATILE (evaporate rapidly); very dangerous materials
in the wrong hands.  They must be used in well-ventilated areas a long way
from any source of spark or flames.  Breathing the concentrated vapors from
any of them could lead to central nervous system depression or death.  They
can be extremely irritating to the skin and eyes.  Are ya scared yet?  You
should be.  One does not want to use these in a half-assed way. Treat them
with respect.  Most make gasoline seem mild by comparison.

Assuming you can be careful, you can probably obtain something with xylene,
toluene or both at an auto parts house, sold as a carburetor cleaner.
Gumout (tm) was one that might still be available, it even came as a
convenient aerosol.  Get the gloves that they recommend, too.  Nitrile
should be impervious enough.  Don't use latex gloves, this stuff will eat
'em up. Read the warnings. Twice. 

What you DON'T want to use is a chlorinated solvent like 1,1,1
trichloroethane, carbon tetrachloride or methyl chloroform.  Although much
less flammable, these materials will readily attack any aluminum parts,
causing nearly instantaneous corrosion.  Then oily shutters will be the
least of your worries. 

As far as lubricating the shutters after, I didn't.  My opinion (which may
not be held by experts) was that any oil that was thick enough to stay in
place was thick enough to slow the shutter or attract dirt.  I just let the
toluene evaporate for an hour before reassembling the camera.  There didn't
seem to be sufficient pressure on the pivot points of the blades to warrant
lubrication.  I did put a pin sized micro-drop of graphited lube on the
linkage pivots on the other side of the shutter board.  Don't recall the
name of that, but I think it was made for locks.

The above statements reflect my experiences only, on a Kodak Stereo camera
only.

Again, please do not use any chemicals or solvents if you cannot do so with
the proper care. Read all cautions and FOLLOW THEM.  If you don't have the
means to abide by the warning statements, put it back on the shelf.  There
are few enough stereo photographers in the world as it is.

>-Steven D. Johnson
>

Best (and safest) regards,
Bill Davis


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