P3D Re: PHOTO-3D digest 2404

[JNorman805@xxxxxxx]

In digest 2404, Peter Davis writes:

<< I'm thinking of trying to experiment with a twin camera rig.  What I'd
 like to do is put two point-and-shoot cameras base-to-base to get a
 reasonably "normal" separation.  Does anyone know of a gizmo for
 mounting the cameras base-to-base? >>

Actually, I made my own using 1/2-inch by 1 1/4 inch wood.  The "business"
part of the bracket consists of a piece of the above-described wood long
enough to clear the two cameras when they are mounted base to base with their
tripod sockets opposing each other.  This could be longer than a single
camera, if, as in my case, the tripod sockets are closer to one end of the
camera than the other.  I cut a semicircular notch in the wood to allow me to
reach the bolts that would eventually fasten the rig to the tripod sockets.
 Next,  I cut two pieces of 1/16 by 1 1/4 aluminum stock, each just a touch
longer than the camera.  I fastened each piece of aluminum to the face of the
wood, using very tiny brass wood screws, through holes I pre-drilled in the
aluminum (don't remember the exact specs of the little wood screws, but they
were flat-head --very important -- and countersunk into the aluminum).  Next,
I drilled a hole through the entire piece, with a 7/32 bit.  Next, I used a
1/4 by 20 tap to cut a thread into the aluminum holes.  By the way, remember
that semicircular notch in the wood?  That's exactly between the two threaded
holes.   Next, I filed a groove, just a little wider than 1/16th inch around
the circumference of each of two 1/4 by 20 hex-headed cap screws, immediately
next to the head of the screws.  The screws I used are long enough to pass
through the 1/16th inch aluminum and into the tripod sockets, but not so long
as to cause damage to the camera bodies.  Once the screws are threaded into
the holes in the aluminum, they get to the point where they rotate freely,
where the thread is filed away by the groove, but they can't fall out.  I
start the screw into the tripud socket by holding it still with my forefinger
in the semicircular notch in the wood, then rotate the camera until it's
snug.  I use an ordinary open-ended mechanic's wrench to snug it up, being
careful not to overtighten.  I do the same with the camera on the other side.
 This gives you an interocular distance of 1 1/6 inches plus twice the
distance from one camera bottom to the center of its lens.
       Refinements: (1) I glued a piece of sheet vinyl on the face of each
piece of aluminum, to create a slip resistant surface for the mounted
cameras. (2)  I put another piece of wood across each end of the rig (top and
bottom when it's held vertically for picture-taking).  The bottom piece
serves as a steady grip for my left hand, and the top piece serves as a grip
for my righthand.  The top piece is also where I have my single synched
button mounted, and where I have a shoe for my Vivitar 285 flasgh unit.
        I don't know how you will synch the cameras you are using.  I used
Canon Rebels, and spliced together two remote electrinic cable releases so
one button fires two cameras.  The button is fastened, as noted, to the top
piece of wood.  The flash is fired by connection, via a remote sensor cord,
to one of the two cameras.  Synch is close enough so that most of the time,
if the auto focus is not thrown off by something in the field of view of one
camera or the other, I get perfect flash synch in both cameras.  Hope this
helps.
         Note to Steve Berezin:  I know I promised you a picture or drawing,
and I haven't forgotten.  I just haven't gotten to it yet.  But I will, I
promise.  My apologies.


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End of PHOTO-3D Digest 2405
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