P3D Re: Good Realist viewer hunting

["Dr. George A. Themelis" <DrT-3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Vincent Macek asks for advice on what to look for when shopping
for stereo viewers in yard sales...  I am attaching a section from
the 1st edition of my red button book (a 2nd edition is in the works
and should be ready for NSA '98).  Even this quote was written
specifically for the red button viewer, it applies for all battery
operated viewers (regarding the Kodaslide II, ignore the common
"frozen focus" problem; but pay attention to the condition of the
electrical cord because such repair is rather tricky.)

The bottom line for me is this: "buy anyway but pay depending on 
condition".  DrT will be around to fix problems or even replace 
lenses if needed! :-)

- BEGIN QUOTE

1.2.  Buying & Inspection Tips

When shopping for a Realist red button viewer, look for the following:

* Condition of the lenses.  This is the most important component of 
  the viewer.  Look for scratches, chips or internal defects.  The 
  internal defects are not easy to detect.  Clean lenses and strong 
  light are needed and these are not usually found in viewers for sale. 
  Reserve the right to return the viewer if not satisfied with the 
  quality of the lenses.  Make sure that the viewer has double-element 
  lenses (section 2.1).  Loose lenses is a reason for concern but this 
  can be fixed (some of the 4 lens’ springs are either missing or need 
  to be adjusted or replaced).  It is a valid reason to demand a 
  discount.

* Condition of the case.  Look for obvious cracks in the outside.  A 
  viewer with cracks should be priced lower than one without cracks.  If 
  the crack is narrow or fresh or has not be repaired before, it should 
  not be difficult to repair.

* Condition of the electrical contacts.  Open the viewer and look for 
  signs of corrosion due to battery leak.  This is a rather common 
  problem.  It can range from light corrosion (which is common even 
  without any battery leak in viewers that have not been maintained) to 
  very heavy corrosion that has eaten the contacts away.  In most cases, 
  except for the most severe cases of battery leak, the contacts can be 
  cleaned and polished.  Excessive corrosion is also a reason to demand 
  a price discount.  I sometimes hear that "the viewer is not working", 
  meaning the light does not come on when new batteries and a good light 
  bulb are used.  Usually the problem is a heavy oxide built-up in the 
  battery or switch contacts.  If the contacts are clean then it is 
  possible that one of the connecting wires is broken.  Most problems of 
  that nature can be fixed.  There is no such thing as a "non-working 
  viewer" due to electrical problems.

* Interocular adjustment and focusing.  Make sure that they work 
  smoothly.  They can usually be adjusted but loose controls might be a
  sign of missing springs or screws or of cracking in the case.

* Other.  Make sure that all the following pieces are present:  
  reflector, slide spring, top screw, red-button switch spring, 4 lens’ 
  springs, two side screws.  These parts can be usually replaced but 
  they should be there if the viewer is supposed to be in excellent 
  condition.  Also, the overall appearance (scratches, degree of wear, 
  etc.), should be taken into consideration in determining the value of 
  a viewer.

To do a complete test of a viewer it is best to take it home, clean it 
and inspect it carefully with new batteries, bright light bulb and a 
couple of sharp slides.  A comparison with a viewer of known good 
quality helps too.

How much is it reasonable to pay for a red button viewer?  It depends 
on the condition, of course.  Prices of viewers are going up as more 
and more stereo photographers discover their value.  The price of a 
red button viewer in excellent condition was $60 in 1988, $80 in 1994, 
it is $100 or more in 1996 and it is going up by about $10 per year.  
This price is justified in my opinion for a number of reasons:  First, 
it costs about $80 just to buy a new pair of achromatic lenses of 
similar quality.  Second, there is no commercial viewer with 
achromatic lenses being made today.  A viewer of similar overall 
quality to the red button  would certainly cost much more than $100 to 
buy new.  At the end it all boils down to demand and supply.  Unlike 
common stereo cameras (Realist 3.5 and Kodak Stereo), today the demand 
for viewers is high and the supply is low.  There are several reasons 
for that.  Many people who shot stereo slides in the 50s lost their 
interest, sold their cameras but kept their viewers to look at the 
slides.  The same applies for the relatives of those who passed away. 
Also, active stereo photographers today usually need more viewers (to 
share slides) than stereo cameras.   My prediction is that prices of 
good viewers will continue to go up.  Do not pass the opportunity to 
buy a reasonably  priced red button viewer.  I know, I don’t!

- END OF QUOTE

-- George Themelis



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