P3D John Ohrt's quest for a stereo camera

["Dr. George A. Themelis" <DrT-3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

>I was going to ask you and others, off list, to avoid the my camera is
>better than your camera wars.  I wasn't aware that I could get a Realist
>as low as $75.  I was also interested if a Kodak would fill the bill, ie
>focus adjustment, good range of exposure and aperture settings, usable
>flash interface, good lens.

Camera discussions have brought good points from all sides.  They have
even made *me* aware of some basic "characteristics" of each camera.
I say "characteristics" which could be good or bad (advantages or
disadvantages) for certain people.  No everyone sees a feature the
same way but we all agree on certain characteristics.  Let's talk
characteristics or features or reputation:

****** Realist ******

Reputation:  Cheap, difficult to use, well-built (but like a brick), 
heavy (790 g), easy to repair (or plenty of parts and repair 
experience), accurate shutter, prone to light leaks/advance problems.

Characteristics: 24x23 mm image area, 70 mm lens' separation,
f3.5-f22 cont. adj. aperture, T, B, 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50,
1/100, 1/150 (or 1/200 for 2.8) shutter speeds, 2.5-infinity focus
range with movement of film plane, split image rangefinder w/121 mm
base, fixed 10 sprocket film advance, hot shoe (needs modification or
adapter to use modern electronic flash, but synchronized at all
speeds), tripod socket, NO bubble level.  130,000 sold since 1947.

****** Kodak *******

Reputation:  Cheap, easy to use, lighter (630 g), will not take
much abuse due to use of plastic & aluminum (vs. steel for Realist),
prone to "slow shutter", no rangefinder, no slow shutter speeds, BUT
bubble level visible through the viewfinder, easy to load, advance,
rewind film. Has many devoted followers.

Characteristics: 24x23 mm image area, 70 mm separation,
f3.5-f22 cont. adj. aperture, B, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/200 shutter
speed, 4 feet to inf. focus range via front lens movement, 
ASA bayonet flash connection (needs modification or adapter),
tripod socket.  100,000 sold since 1954.

******

As you can see, both cameras have similar features... The basic 
difference is Kodak's slightly lighter weight, user friendliness, 
presence of bubble level and Realist's rangefinder, slow shutter 
speeds (1/2, 1/5, 1/10 sec) and abuse resistance.  How important
are these features for you?  Some people claim that Realist's 
rangefinder and slow shutter speeds are useless.  Do you need these
features?  How likely is it to drop the camera?  Do you need the
bubble level?  How good are you with repairs?

Because these two cameras account for over 2/3s of all stereo
cameras made in the 50s, chances to find them dirty cheap are higher.
For a good camera of either species I will pay $100+.  I usually 
buy from dealers.  How much do they pay the original owner?  Much
less, obviously.  I know people that were given these cameras for
free.  Being in Canada might be a little difficult to find those
at far below market value, but.... you never know.

The disadvantage of any other stereo camera is usually the price,
even though you can usually find a Colorist for a decent price.
Revere/Wollensak, TDC, Belplasca and others are priced higher.

I have not talked about optical quality... I believe that there is
no significant difference between all these cameras under typical
conditions of use (smaller apertures - f8 or smaller).  The film used,
secondary processing (making prints for example) and photographic
qualities (composition, subject, exposure, etc.) are MUCH more
important than small differences in optical quality, IMO.

>The Realist is certainly a candidate.  I don't consider its format a
>disadvantage.  Rather I was thinking of the FED for one, which has a
>24x30 format I believe, and while a pain for adapting to Realist format,
>would be OK for my work.

The problem with the FED is that it only has automatic exposure.  You
cannot set the shutter speed or aperture manually... (from what I 
understand).  If you can find one at a good price and with warranty
(due to a questionable reliability) then go for it.  The pain is not
in adapting the FED for Realist format but the other way around,
adjusting Realist-format equipment for 7p.

Good luck!

-- George Themelis


------------------------------