P3D Re: more double depth

[aifxtony@xxxxxxxxxxxxx (Tony Alderson)]

>CanterMike@xxxxxxx wrote (digest 2969):
>Well, now that I've gotten several answers & tips (that, as usual, don't
>always agree! [insert your choice of emoticon here]) I still have some
>questions on "double depth".<

>Does anyone want to tackle how this differs from simply using a mask with
>a different aperture (like using a 4P mask instead of a standard 5P, or
>using a 5P mask instead of a 7P)?<

These masks all have their apertures on the same center-to-center spacing,
so their stereo window will be projected to the same plane.  By making a
new mask with the apertures spaced more closely together, the stereo window
is moved forward. A 5perf "medium" or "close-up" mask has a narrower
aperture ON THE SAME SPACING, which allows us to move the chips apart while
mounting--this moves the IMAGE behind the stereo window, instead of moving
the WINDOW to the fore of the image.

>Is the "cut & shut" method (removing a strip from the middle of the mask)
>actually better than masking the apertures, or only easier? <

I think it's easier, but you may be different.  I have a hard time getting
the tape identical on the two windows.  (Although I've used this to my
advantage a couple of times, to make a stereo window that is canted in the
z-axis) If you want to use "double depth" on a separated pair (2x2x2), you
have to mask the apertures.  (In other words, sometimes masking is the only
solution)

>Can a "cut & shut" be done with RBT or cardboard mounts (actual experience
>counts more than theory here)?<

No problem using cardboard mounts--cardboard is easier to cut than
aluminum.  However, you need to use some caution so the retaped mount
doesn't get too thick.  This additional junk may increase the chance of
hanging up in the slide carrier.  Keep in mind when I have used this
process, I'm generally mounting aluminum masks in glass.  The glass and
binders keep the overall dimensions of the slide correct.  (One of the
benefits of shooting stereo for 25 years is that I have a stash of Realist
and EMDE masks...)

I haven't tried this with RBT mounts, but I think the thickness would make
the process difficult.  You could try just cutting off the outside of the
frames, then regluing the front part of the mask together.  However, for
these mounts I would consider sandwiching a mask in the mount.  You could
cut a section out of a black bit of the film leader.  Leave the perfs on so
you can register to the RBT pegs.  Otherwise, you could shoot custom masks
on litho film or the like.  This would require some forethought to get the
aperture correct.  So for RBT mounts, masking seems a better solution than
reworking the mount itself.

Hope this helps.

Tony Alderson
aifxtony@xxxxxxxxxxxxx



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