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P3D Re: Repost on Iloca


  • From: Paul Talbot <ptww@xxxxxxxxx>
  • Subject: P3D Re: Repost on Iloca
  • Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 21:48:14 -0600

Rod Sage wrote:

> I purchased an original Iloca 7p camera off ebay recently [snip]
> I then tried and
> tried to get a roll of film through but the sharp sprocket would just
> chew up the film. I even had instructions with Pipers hints on cutting
> the leader and careful film advancing. [snip] But I just couldn't
> figure out if modern films can actually go through these cameras. It
> almost looked like the film sprockets had to be larger or spaced
> differently.

Following Piper's advice to be sure to use a long leader*, I have
had no problem whatsoever advancing film through my Iloca.  As far
as I can tell from looking at the camera, the Iloca *does not use*
the film sprocket holes at all.  I don't know the right terminology
for the parts, but you just slip the film under the metal tab that
is part of the take-up spool; the advance works just by keeping the
film "locked" to the take-up spool via the metal tab.

All of which makes me wonder what you mean by "the sharp sprocket"
that was chewing up the film. ???

(I have always used bulk-loaded film in the camera, which does
seem to advance somewhat easier than retail-packaged slide film,
based on my experience with a slipping Realist.  Don't know if
that could be one reason for our different experiences.)

I did initially have some trouble getting used to the backwards
(clockwise) film advance operation.  As I recall, the only
consequence was some frame overlap problems caused by partially
turning the advance knob in the wrong direction.

* According to Piper, failure to use a long leader with the original
Iloca will result in the film getting chewed up and making quite a
mess.  Piper makes it sound extremely difficult to "recover" from
such an incident.

> I had a copy of
> Harry Posters guide to stereo equipment and it told how to remove the
> back (since this is a bottom loading camera) by removing the 4 screws
> under the front leather. This was easy to do as the screws were on top
> of the leather.

I don't know why the screws would be on top of the leather, but
thanks for the tip on how to remove the back.  Maybe it will
provide a way to use a ground glass get the focus fixed on this
camera after all!

Paul Talbot


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