P3D Re: Splicing Canon remote shutters ...

[Steve Berezin <sbere@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have made releases for these and they are very easy to make.  I use a
couple of momentary switches and a toggle switch to turn on and off the
autofocus.  The hardest part is getting the mini-plugs.

David Kazdan wrote:
> 
> >
> 
> My Rebel Xs has ground and two CMOS inputs.  Grounding one turns on focus and lightmeter;
> grounding the other also fires the shutter.  This is similar to every P&S I've
> dismantled--three or four.
> 
>         David
> 
> > Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 19:42:07 -0400
> > From: Peter Davis <pd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: photo-3d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: P3D Splicing Canon remote shutters ...
> > Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.19990920193847.00a7a450@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Mime-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> >
> > I've determined that the Canon remote shutter (RS-60E) will fire the Ricoh
> > Shotmaster that I have, though it won't pre-focus.  I assume the shutter
> > sockets on the Ricoh are only 2 pole, and not 3.  So, I bought 2 of these
> > shutters to splice together.  I'm thinking that when I upgrade to a Canon
> > Rebel, the same remote will work with that.
> >
> > However, I'm not sure how best to cover the "Y" connection once I've
> > soldered it.  I know heat-shrink tubing will work for a regular connection,
> > and may be just find for this.  However, I'd like to find some better way
> > to cover the "Y" connection.  Any ideas?  I know there are a bunch of
> > shutter hackers out there.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -pd
> >

-- 
mailto:sbere@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.berezin.com/3d
Steve Berezin
Berezin Stereo Photography Products
21686 Abedul
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
USA