P3D RE: Cave Photography options

["David W. Kesner" <drdave@xxxxxxxxxx>]

A large percentage of cave photography occurs in small confined 
spaces where walls, ceilings and floors are closer than seven to ten 
feet from the camera position.

Because of this any stereo camera that has a stereo base greater 
than 65mm will have window violation problems when it comes time 
to mount. Even the standard Realist format cameras can have a 
problem. Yes, you can always mask down but you should keep that 
in mind when you are composing your shot so as to get proper 
framing and limited depth of field.

Because of this I would advise against a twin 35mm setup (or at 
least ones with wider stereo bases). What I would recommend is a 
single 35mm or MF on a slide bar. With this set up you always have 
perfectly matched lenses and the widest selection possible. Of 
course this is only for static shots and not for those with moving 
water or human subjects.

Even though I use an RBT in caves I would still say that the Realist 
camera is the very best all around camera for cave stereo 
photography. It is extremely rugged and can take the abuses of 
caving. Paired with a Vivitar 283 flash it can be an almost point and 
shoot setup for those shots that can't wait for a 30 minute setup. On 
the other hand it does just as well with 12 slaved flashes in a big 
room shot that takes half the day just to setup. The camera, flash, 
extra batteries, and several rolls of film can fit in a small Pelican 
case which protects it from dust, water, mud, and hard knocks.

The one thing you must always do though is to check the front of the 
lenses to make sure one or both aren't fogged over (a very 
common occurrence in caves).

As long as we are on the topic of cave stereo photography I would 
like to take this opportunity to once again announce that there is a 
3D Underground Folio and we are always looking for new 
members. If you are interested please contact me.

That's all for now,

David W. Kesner
Boise, Idaho, USA
drdave@xxxxxxxxxx