Re: [photo-3d] Realist question response

[Linda Nygren <lnygren@xxxxxxx>]

Having used flash adaptors in the past, I would personally recommend
filing down the flash bump etc to make it usable as-is with modern
flashes, no adaptor needed. I found the adaptor route especially
burdensome as I was using flashes that do not have synch cords (Olympus
T-20 and T-32), so I had to use two stacked adaptors rather than just
one. Any flash will work, but it is best to have one that has an auto
option at at least f8 for 100 asa, rather than the typical f4 of smaller
flashes. I believe the Vivitar 283 will give you f11 on auto. The
smaller apertures (high numbers) give better depth of field. Of course
if you think you might want to resell the camera as a collectible rather
than to another photographer, you may prefer to use an adaptor rather
than modifying the flash shoe. -Linda

Joseph Petrarca wrote:
> 
> Paul Young wrote:
> 
> A couple of (several) jargon (and otherwise) questions from a
> beginning photographer/3D photographer:
> 
> Stereo Realist question:
> 
> How does the "Hot Shoe" flash attachment work on a Stereo Realist?
> Hot shoe on Realist is "almost but not quite" what we need for conventional
> flash.  There was an old bulb-type unit available with the camera that fit
> onto the hot shoe.  Probably a good bet if you need MAJOR punch- for
> lighting up a cave or auditorium, etc. It has a little ball bearing size
> nub/contact that does not recess or depress.  This fact keeps modern flash
> shoes from fitting.  You need an adaptor, sold by Real-#D and others, which
> fits on and gives you a PC cord connection.  You then mount you modern flash
> to the adaptor and make the electrical connection via a PC cord between the
> adaptor and the flash.  Downside is that the adaptor/flash rig becomes a bit
> "wobbly"-especially with a larger flash unit.  Alternative is to get a
> bracket which camera "bolts" to and has an arm which holds flash.  this is
> less convenient, but brings the flash-head off-axis of the lens, thus
> avoiding redeye.  If I'm taking a lot of people pictures, I will go to the
> bracket.
> 
> I've heard many instances of using an electronic flash with a
> Realist.  How is the electronic flash triggered from this "HotShoe"?
> Per the above comments, you attach the flash, rig up the PC cord, set the
> flash to same aperature as you set camera to, fire camera.  That's it.  You
> have the advantage with the Realist in that the shutter is leaf-type (versus
> focal plane in most SLR's) and you can fire flash at any shutter speed.
> Don't have to worry about flash sync (usually 1/60 or 1/125 on focal plane
> shutters)  Flash produces dramatic effects and it is worth becoming
> proficient at it.  Even during bright daylight, flash will "fill" in shadow
> areas and make your subject "pop" when done right. A good flash to start
> with is the Vivitar 283.  It's the Ford F150 of flashes-pretty reliable and
> pretty powerful-widely available used for around $65.  Takes 4 AA batteries-
> and also a NC3 nicad pack available although you will need the carger for it
> (Charge20) as well.  A good unit.  The Vivitar 285 is next step up-same
> power as 283 (guide number 120 @ 100 ISO film speed) but has variable power
> for manual mode.
>